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Routes in East Buttress

Longland's Continuation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sword, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 105 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on May 28, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

An exposed, blunt rib with good climbing on sound rock, only lacking gear. Start from the ledge at the top of the rightwards-trending quartz ramp, the rib should be to your left.

Climb the corner to the right of the rib for about 20 feet to an overlap, stick some protection in then traverse left under the overlap to gain the rib itself. This move is quite tricky but well protected. From here move easily up the rib, with no gear until a ledge with a large block of quartz ("the quartz babe"). A few metres behind this is a good belay on a large spike.

The Sword is a good start to "Route 2" up to the Great Terrace.

Location

Viewed from the miners' track, there is a distinct rightwards-trending quartz ramp at the bottom of Lliwedd East Buttress. Leave the path when you are about on a level with (slightly below) the bottom of this and scramble across the steep hillside and scree. Gain the top of the ramp and a large ledge with a deep gully to your right. This is the start.

Protection

Not much. A purple camalot went in before the traverse left, and a few nuts immediately after. The belay is a slung spike. However, a varied rack is essential if you are continuing to the top (and who wouldn't?)

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