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Routes in East Buttress

Longland's Continuation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sword, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on May 28, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A good, but much easier continuation from the top of The Sword. Route finding is not actually that bad here, compared to higher up! If in doubt, follow the slightly worn rock.

P1) 20m
From the quartz babe, move easily up via a recessed crack to the right (fixed hex as of May 2013) to belay on a large rock spike on a ledge above.

P2) 15m
Clamber onto the top of the large spike and make a delicate step across onto the slab. A couple of tricky moves gain good holds and an easier romp up a few metres, then left to a good spike belay on a ledge.

P3) 40m
A polished slot leads upwards from the belay for about 10-12m to a ledge and optional (poor) belay. Continue up a shallow groove/left-facing corner slightly to the right of the ledge for about 25m to another spike belay.

P4) Easy climbing up broken ground leads to the great terrace and (you guessed it) a large finger of rock to belay on.

The great terrace is a good place for a lunch break, with good views across to Crib Goch straight ahead and Snowdon to the left. Observe the constant stream of people hiking up the miners' track and the PYG track knowing that, even if they look in your direction, they probably won't be able to pick you out.

An excellent finale from here is "Red Wall" and "Longland's Continuation". If short on time you can traverse a little way left and finish up the 3rd/easy 4th class scramble of "Terminal Arete"

Location

Normally started from the quartz babe after climbing "The Sword". However, there is a much easier, 2 pitch alternative up to this point from the start of The Sword.

Protection

A rack of nuts and a load of slings will be sufficient for a confident leader, with many runners provided by rock spikes. Offset nuts might be better, given the shallow, flared nature of most of the cracks. A varied rack, with a few larger pieces (cams or hexes) is not essential but pretty normal.

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