Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan (1978)
Page Views: 848 total · 11/month
Shared By: Phil York on Nov 7, 2012 with updates from Austin Goff
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Scramble your way up the huge block below the pin stack and set up a belay.

P1: Clip the pin stack and pull some hard moves gaining a relatively better stance above. I would recommend placing a small nut at the start of the traverse from Wild Kingdom and placing a truck hand sized cam a little higher above the nut to protect you and your second , sling it with a 4 foot runner, then down climb a bit and continue on. Traverse out right and clip the bolt making some interesting moves to a jug. Veer up and right through the obvious line, climbing through some very awkward slick quartz. End just below the orange billboard with a splitting crack where you can build a very bomber belay with 3"-2" cams and a comfortable stance. (5.11b)

P2: Climb up into another awkward sequence in the opening crack system. Great gear options and interesting climbing here. Mantle up and you can choose many options on where to go from here. You can continue below Catnip ending at a pin or bail out right to a slung tree in the Hanging Garden; just make sure your second is comfortable making basically a solo traverse. (5.10)

Location

Fire Wall, break out right after the pin stack of Wild Kingdom.

Protection

A full Moores rack. Singles of all cam sizes, set of stoppers, and some long runners. Most of the route can be clipped short.

Photos

Samuel Gerber
Carrboro
  5.11 R
Samuel Gerber   Carrboro
  5.11 R
How much longer is the funky and ugly sika pin stack going to hold? Though move right there with potential for a decent sized fall protected only by the pin stack. If the pin rips you'll hit a ledge and if you're unlucky bounce of it, hence the R rating from me. Would climb this more often if it weren't for that questionable piece of protection (or if I were stronger :P ). May 7, 2018
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a/b
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a/b
It would probably hold for another 10 years or longer no problem. It may be funky but its a glued in pin and in really great shape. There is also a hidden white tricam placement in good rock that will keep you off the ground if you hit the ledge.

Edit: We recently went up there with the intention of replacing the pin but it was in such good condition that we decided to leave it in place. I have no problem trusting it as my only piece of gear for that move. May 8, 2018
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11-
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11-
Pin stack is absolutely truck. It’s easy to protect the traverse right on Riders. There is a nut and then you can climb higher on WK, place a cam and extend it long. May 8, 2018
Samuel Gerber
Carrboro
  5.11 R
Samuel Gerber   Carrboro
  5.11 R
I agree the traverse is ok, it's moving over that pin stack that gets me.

Is the white tricam you mention above the ledge or on the way to the ledge?
Not sure we did the start right. We climbed pretty much straight up the center of the ledge block. May 8, 2018
Phil York
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b
Phil York   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b
If you trace straight down from the pin stack, there is a detached looking block that looks like you can get a 0.3 C4 behind it. If you then follow directly right of that block, there is a small little spot where you can get the white tri-cam. There is a little bit of scarred rock where I had to pry one out awhile back. It is right up off the ledge, one would need to squat down to place it. May 8, 2018
original dowel with drilled piton hanger has been replaced with 3.5" ss 5 piece. 3-2018 Aug 31, 2018
The first pitch of this route is stout at 10+. 11b would be more correct. You dont have any idea how hard those boys were in the 70s Aug 31, 2018