Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Rick Cobb, Mike Turner, Tom Callicutt, ? Parkinson - 1995
Page Views: 289 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jan 26, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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This is a very obscure route. I don't think it even made the topo in Selected Climbs. It climbs much better than it looks from the ground though and is very worthy. Looks slabby, but it is actually quite pumpy at times. I'm posting it here in hopes that someone will climb it and beat back the lichen. I doubt it has seen any traffic lately, so it might need cleaning.


Slabby-looking buttress to the right of Fire Wall with some bolts 15' up. Ends at the Hanging Garden.


Bolts, pins, gear. Protects reasonably well, the bolts seem solid. Interestingly, this might be the only route at Moores that you can easily top-rope without leading anything. Used to be my go-to TR solo for training. There is a bomber tree anchor you can access via the Hanging Garden gully. I think you need at least a 70m for TR, maybe 2 ropes.


- No Photos -
i think mike turner got fa Apr 29, 2009
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
I believe the "FA" was a group effort including mike turner and tom callicut. It was reportedly top-roped a good bit beforehand... Actually the true FA was probably done by tim fisher as a wandering line before the bolts and pin were added. The second bolt is located in a bizzarre spot to clip. Sep 20, 2010
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
Really like this route. Hope I have a change to do it clean before it gets too cold. Oct 17, 2011
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
TR'ed this recently and have a couple things to add:

At the time of this note, there is a rap station up here around one of the bigger trees (green and black cord + quicklink and ring). We set up on this one but you really want to set up on another big tree a little higher up and closer (climber's left) to the Fire Wall. There are 4? bolts I think, two at the bottom and two up top. Given where we were I think we ended up climbing the lower part of Midlife Crisis and the upper part of Sandbox but not sure about where we switched from one to the other.

Anyway, the first two bolts worth of climbing was interesting but had a fierce layer of lichen and sand making it seriously treacherous. I would HIGHLY recommend cleaning it before making an attempt to lead it. There are a lot of small crimps and slopers to deal with and the sand made it kinda dicey particularly approaching and near the second bolt. Bolts seemed a bit rusty but maybe ok? Don't think I'd want to fall on them from very far out. May 27, 2014
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a PG13
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11a PG13
Hardware was replaced by Neil Rankin last season. The only thing that keeps this from being a 3 star is the layer of grime on the lower half of the climb. Make sure to get gear between the second and 3rd bolt because the clipping stance is strenuous and a fall without the gear would probably be ankle cracking. Apr 27, 2018