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Routes in Fire Wall

Midlife Crises T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
P.O.V. T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Pyromaniac T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Riders on the Storm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Underdog T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Wild Kingdom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Wildlife T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 2,449 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Oct 11, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best pitches I've climbed anywhere. It has an amazing variety of movement, unbeatable position, and plenty of spice. Follow the splitter looking crack to a funky move and a stance. Blast up the obtuse arete feature past some bolts to another stance below the slab. Plug some bogus gear and commit to the 5.11R slab moves, gaining a curiously placed bolt after the buisness. Clip a 2-pin anchor as pro and continue past it to a very steep and cryptic roof section (crux). Finally, fire up the overhung headwall past a bolt and some gear to the anchor. Classic.

Location

Fire Wall

Protection

gear, bolts, and a few fixed pins. no large gear needed up high. bring a stopper to cinch a hangerless bolt about 1/3 of the way up. RPs are also useful. There is an anchor but it needs new nylon. Bring something to back it up (small cam).
Just for the record that second pin in the roof is no longer there. There is only one. That being said this is the best pitch at moores imo. Feb 9, 2012
Underdog bolt after crux on slab was placed by me on lead hanging on a hook on the good edge below it. Fun hauling up all that bolting gear, not wanting to whip on those marginal nuts. Underdog links Go Dog Go to the finish of Wild Life for a direct line. -porter Mar 17, 2009
Christopher Barlow
  5.12c R
Christopher Barlow  
  5.12c R
Underdog now has a solid anchor of two pins and a fixed nut, with all steel cable/biners for lowering. The second pin in the roof is also back in place, making the crux decently well protected. Give it a go! Feb 15, 2009
Ben Sachs  
 
Shannon Millsaps, from the ledge above Midlife Crisis Oct 14, 2008
ChanVan Schaack
  5.12b/c R
ChanVan Schaack  
  5.12b/c R
Sweet picture dude! Who done took it? Oct 13, 2008