Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Lee and Pat Munson (1979)
Page Views: 1,538 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jan 25, 2009 with updates from Neil Rankin
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Cool, varied climbing with a pumpy crux and amazing position. Potential for huge, clean falls onto the only bolt on the route. Probably the best introduction to climbing on the spectacular Fire Wall.

Location

Front side of Sentinal Buttress. Start on Super Direct. You will notice that the dihedral feature actually goes into Edge of Fire naturally. Can be done in one pitch plus a short and easy roped scramble to Crows Nest.

Protection

Standard rack, one bolt, gear belay. Protects very well, especially for the Fire Wall.

Photos

Tim Fisher
  5.11b/c
Tim Fisher  
  5.11b/c
Bolt was replaced years ago. Old bolt left there for chuckles, See if you can make it fail! Jun 4, 2009
Ben Sachs
  5.11b
Ben Sachs  
  5.11b
I took a huge (40 ft?) whip (fell from belay ledge mantle!) onto the drilled angle bolt. Of course I backed it up with new bolt, but the old one took the force. It bent slightly but was fine! Jul 1, 2009
Robert Hutchins
  5.11b
Robert Hutchins  
  5.11b
Great route, and some of the best exposure you can find at the grade at Moore's. Would highly recommend for someone wanting a firewall adventure who isn't quite up to the other offerings. Any reason this is grouped with Central Buttress routes when it pretty clearly climbs the Firewall side, albeit the edge, of the formation? Dec 21, 2011
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
This route is not run-out after the crux bolt. The pro is there if you can hang on to place it. Sep 23, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
The more popular start is on the Fire Wall side in the large left-facing dihedral. Climb the corner to the ledge, traverse the ledge 20 feet and climb straight up from there. Its best to not place pro in the corner because drag will be bad and it’s only about 5.6 or 5.7. If that doesn’t float your boat you can make the very easy traverse to the ledge from further right and closer to the Wild Kingdom’s start. Jan 27, 2018
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b/c
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b/c
Another start option albeit strenuous is to climb the overhanging chimney/offwidth in-between Super Direct and the easier regular dihedral start. Bring bigger gear and some body english. Apr 27, 2018
Samuel Gerber
Carrboro
 
Samuel Gerber   Carrboro
 
The gear options for an anchor on the "belay mantle ledge" are a bit sparse for my taste (or my lack of skill at anchor building) . I found one really solid nut and a few semi-decent other options. Offset cams might come in handy. Oct 31, 2018
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b/c
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b/c
Gear on the ledge has always been a challenge. I've found some great pieces that would take too much time to explain here (PM or hit me up to climb sometime). Currently most people place spread out gear which requires lots of cord or being really efficient using the rope to build it. . Oct 31, 2018