Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Byron Bridges, Tim Fisher
Page Views: 1,533 total · 21/month
Shared By: chummer on Nov 3, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Hanging Chain has some of the best (only) crack climbing in North Carolina. Perched way up over Hickory Nut Gorge, this pumpy route is a classic and likely the best crack of it's grade in N.C.

The route begins with some do not fall territory that leads to sustained and often heads up crack and face climbing. Be on the lookout for a thin section at the top of the crack section. The route changes character near the top for some enjoyable and technical face climbing. Technical and thin moves near the top could make for a heartbreaking finish.

Location

Scramble low 5th and 4th class terrain up ledges to a perch beneath a bolt. Head straight up to the crack above.

Protection

A healthy set of stoppers and a single set of cams from micro to a #3 camalot should do it. 4 Bolts protect the top. Bolted anchors. A 70m rope is recommended.

Photos

Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Wild and full value. Another stout 12b at the bald. Using one rope requires quite a few runners but isn't too bad. Currently a fixed nut right after the crux won't keep you from taking flight since you will most likely peel off before being able to clip it. It does tame things a bit on the send though. An amazing complement to Spry look. This one is not nearly as crimpy but is pretty extreme on pump. Bring a nut tool to clean out the fixed stuff please. Mar 17, 2013
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
One of the best of the grade in NC. Lots of pump and lots of exposure. Brown pants required. Dec 19, 2017
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
Austin is right! This area should be getting much more traffic . . .

Brown pants, but definitely safe. Amazing redpoint crux on a full value, varied route. Dec 21, 2017
chummer
  5.12b
chummer  
  5.12b
As of 12/6/18

FYI, Thought I would inform you that the crux holds on Hanging Chain are loose and won't be there much longer. When they come off (they will) they would kill your belayer if they hit their head.

Probably a good idea for belayers to wear a helmet if you decide to go up on the Chain. Loose on the thin crux before the hand jams and in the middle of the bolted section. They're not terminal yet but a few more freeze thaws and a strong arm and the chain will have some new (possibly harder) sequences. A careful climber could avoid pulling them off but that seems unlikely as most will be pumped and desperate. 4 days ago