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Routes in Hanging Chain
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Battery Brides T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dogz and drillz T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Excavation Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fairhope S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hanging Chain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Krispy Kreme T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lavender Dream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Lessons Learned T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Little People T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Love Wig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Not-so Great Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Organized Confusion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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OW 5.8R T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Plastic Fish T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Remote Control Cockroach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sly Hooks (aka Sly Truths) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spiders & Snakes T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Spry Look S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Talk This Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Toys in the Attic T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Truth or Dare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Walk This Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Weed-wack Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 35.4555, -82.22473 |
| FA: | Doug Reed? |
| Page Views: | 746 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | chummer on Nov 18, 2018 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Obscure, dirty, hard, and runout. If you'd like to hone your "questing" game this route might be for you. The climbing is slabby, often thin, and a bit tenuous in places. The fine sheen of dusty lichen only enhances the experience.
If this got climbed and the dirt was cleaned off it'd be a climb worth repeating and warming up on. The Shull guide listed this as 5.11a. That seems a bit much. I thought it was more like mid 5.10.
Location
Just left of "Walk this way" is an obvious long Chimney and OW layback. This climb starts just left of the arete that forms this corner.
Protection
3 bolts. Micro gear to .5 BD camalot size. Lots of small stoppers. This route deserves an R rating and maybe... an X in one spot up high. BUT, its mostly well protected. Bolts look newly replaced.
The first bolt is way up high and you have to bust some techy 5.9 to clip it. Then next section requires some tricky and tenuous small nut and TCU placements up a very thin seam. But the pro is good. An easy runout to the roof gets you to bomber pro. Pull the tricky roof and clip the 2nd bolt. Now prepare to quest. This stretch of climbing is dirty and hard to read. And it's run the F out. Its a long ways to the next bolt. Don't fall at the apex of the runout or you might come close to the ground, thus the R/X rating. There is a micro cam but I thought it was rubbish.
One more bolt here would make the route (still runout) but very manageable and sane.
Finish on a huge ledge and lower from anchors above the OW corner.
Take a deep breath.
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