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Routes in Hanging Chain

Battery Brides T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Excavation Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fairhope S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hanging Chain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Krispy Kreme T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lessons Learned T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little People T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Love Wig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not-so Great Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Organized Confusion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Plastic Fish T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Remote Control Cockroach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sly Truths T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spiders & Snakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spry Look S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Talk This Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truth or Dare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk This Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Weed-wack Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard
Page Views: 682 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bruce Burgess on Dec 31, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A unique climb for the area. Not the greatest rock quality, but the moves and protection are really good. Great training for your next alpine adventure. Jam up left-most right facing dihedral on the right edge of the Hanging Chain Buttress. After about 60 feet at a triangle block, you encounter the 5.10c crux traverse that takes you into the corner system to your right. Be sure to save #3 and #2 camalots to protect the next testy section up and around a small roof (5.10b/c). Continue up and right (avoiding a hollow flake or two) to a large block with many slings. It's about 110' to the ground from there.

Location

2nd route right of Hanging Chain. one 70m rope will get you down fine.

Protection

medium-large stoppers, tricams. Double set 0 TCU - #3 Camalot. Save #2, #3 Camalot and 0 and 1 TCUs for after the traverse. If a 3rd will be following the pitch, the 2nd should trail a rope and reclip gear. It would be difficult to reclip gear in the left crack if lowering from the top anchor.

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Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
Found 2 bolts with biners at the end, I didn't see any slings. Belaying from the little pine tree, I was able to lower off with a 70m with maybe 10 ft to spare. Other than a little inconsequential seepage at the top and bottom, the route stayed dry in the rain. Make sure your belayer wears a helmet. The top of this route may change with time. The crack is quite nice and the ending is interesting. Jan 18, 2016
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA

Coming from the left...Big Corner (big corner), Lessons Learned (face) and Talk This Way (face). Feb 7, 2014
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Jeff,
I think you're talking about the routes "Lessons Learned" and "Talk This Way". There is also an obscure all gear route between these and "Big Corner", but I don't know much more than that about it. Feb 6, 2014
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
Any idea of the mixed routes on the face to the right of Big Corner (before the flake)? Feb 6, 2014
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
There really wasn't much bad rock until the end, and even then it wasn't all that bad. Definitely a fun style of climbing that is hard to come by around here. Apr 5, 2013