Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard
Page Views: 756 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bruce Burgess on Dec 31, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

A unique climb for the area. Not the greatest rock quality, but the moves and protection are really good. Great training for your next alpine adventure. Jam up left-most right facing dihedral on the right edge of the Hanging Chain Buttress. After about 60 feet at a triangle block, you encounter the 5.10c crux traverse that takes you into the corner system to your right. Be sure to save #3 and #2 camalots to protect the next testy section up and around a small roof (5.10b/c). Continue up and right (avoiding a hollow flake or two) to a large block with many slings. It's about 110' to the ground from there.

Location

2nd route right of Hanging Chain. one 70m rope will get you down fine.

Protection

medium-large stoppers, tricams. Double set 0 TCU - #3 Camalot. Save #2, #3 Camalot and 0 and 1 TCUs for after the traverse. If a 3rd will be following the pitch, the 2nd should trail a rope and reclip gear. It would be difficult to reclip gear in the left crack if lowering from the top anchor.

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
There really wasn't much bad rock until the end, and even then it wasn't all that bad. Definitely a fun style of climbing that is hard to come by around here. Apr 5, 2013
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
Any idea of the mixed routes on the face to the right of Big Corner (before the flake)? Feb 6, 2014
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Jeff,
I think you're talking about the routes "Lessons Learned" and "Talk This Way". There is also an obscure all gear route between these and "Big Corner", but I don't know much more than that about it. Feb 6, 2014
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA

Coming from the left...Big Corner (big corner), Lessons Learned (face) and Talk This Way (face). Feb 7, 2014
Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
Found 2 bolts with biners at the end, I didn't see any slings. Belaying from the little pine tree, I was able to lower off with a 70m with maybe 10 ft to spare. Other than a little inconsequential seepage at the top and bottom, the route stayed dry in the rain. Make sure your belayer wears a helmet. The top of this route may change with time. The crack is quite nice and the ending is interesting. Jan 18, 2016