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Routes in Hanging Chain

Battery Brides T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Excavation Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fairhope S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hanging Chain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Krispy Kreme T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lessons Learned T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little People T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Love Wig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not-so Great Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Organized Confusion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Plastic Fish T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Remote Control Cockroach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sly Truths T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spiders & Snakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spry Look S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Talk This Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truth or Dare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk This Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Weed-wack Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Bill Brickey, Tony Ledford 1990
Page Views: 943 total, 16/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A long and amazing technical face climb. Thin edges and sidepulls will test your balance and footwork. An exciting and difficult crux will definitely test your route reading skills. A must do for the face climbing connoisseur. Many of the old bolts remain, but a few have been updated in the important places.

Start in a short right-facing dihedral and a slab. Reach a ledge about 25' up and get some gear before starting the bolted steeper face. Climb through some balancy left facing sidepulls to reach the first old bolt. Make the easy runout to the new shiny bolt. Here the wall gets steep, difficult, and sustained for a few more bolts. Fire through the blank looking wall as holds magically appear. Move to better crimps past a few more bolts to a great stance at a series of left facing vertical rails. Clip an old pin (sling this) and another bolt before trending slightly left and up at the same height of the two-bolt anchor (skip this anchor) on the 5.8 OW. Climb through amazing pods that often take gear to an exciting finish above the last bolt. Reach a ledge with a bolted anchor and amazing belay seat. Probably should have been called best seat in the house. Enjoy the views while your partner thrashes their way up.

Location

At the Y-intersection near the top of the hanging chain approach trail, make a left and continue up the hill for 40'. You will be at the base of Talk This Way and the large leaning block that creates two OW dihedrals. Go right for another 40' and on the right side of the dihedral just before the waterfall is the climb. It is easy to spot most of the bolts from the ground. Rap with 2 60m ropes to the ground.

Protection

Finger sized cams to .5. Lots of draws with a few longer ones to keep it running smooth. The last two old bolts can be backed up with gear. Two bolt anchor at the top with carabiners for rappel.

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