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Routes in Hanging Chain

Battery Brides T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Excavation Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fairhope S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hanging Chain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Krispy Kreme T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lessons Learned T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little People T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Love Wig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not-so Great Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Organized Confusion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Plastic Fish T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Remote Control Cockroach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sly Hooks (aka Sly Truths) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spiders & Snakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spry Look S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Talk This Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truth or Dare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk This Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Weed-wack Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Bruce Burgess & Chris Caldwell - 1988
Page Views: 2,369 total · 21/month
Shared By: porter jarrard on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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Steep face to cruxy slab move making the transition. Start at the crack on the far left (same start as Love Wig) and follow incut holds out to the arete and the 2nd bolt. If you start directly on the arete below the 2nd bolt, the route goes at 5.12d.


Left end of big slab that is located to the right of the breakdown gulley. Immediately right of Love Wig




Bruce Burgess and I did this first using a small tree at the bottom for the starting protection then got hooks and placed the bolts maybe around 1988. It never had an R rating!
C Caldwell Sep 25, 2011
FA. was actually done during Winter of 1988 ground up by Bruce Burgess & Chris Caldwell. Oct 30, 2011
Bennett Harris
Charlotte, NC
Bennett Harris   Charlotte, NC
I felt that this was a very sustained climb, with a few "cruxy" sections and some heady difficult moves high above bolts. Take a small cam or two for the very top. Dec 11, 2011
I totally agree with you Bruce! I hangdogged this thing yesterday and I'm still thinking about it. One question: does the route traverse over to the first bolt from the left or does it start on the arete to the right of the bolt? I tried both ways and found them both to be pretty difficult. Jan 1, 2013
Bruce Burgess
Bruce Burgess  
I start way left at a crack and gun for it. Haven't done the direct start, but if I did, I'd just stick clip the 2nd bolt. Jan 6, 2013

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