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Routes in Hanging Chain

Battery Brides T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Excavation Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fairhope S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hanging Chain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Krispy Kreme T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lessons Learned T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little People T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Love Wig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not-so Great Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Organized Confusion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Plastic Fish T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Remote Control Cockroach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sly Hooks (aka Sly Truths) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spiders & Snakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spry Look S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Talk This Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Truth or Dare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk This Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Weed-wack Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Nathan Brown - belayed by TS / direct finish - rope solo
Page Views: 1,005 total · 14/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jan 1, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route with varied climbing. Of the two lines here, this is the one that was established without prior TR rehearsal (although we did look at it briefly). It was originally done late in the day after finishing up another project, so time was of essence. The route was established in about an hour, and with one point of aid at the base of the corner since the gear was originally poor, and the park was about to close. It was repointed solo a few days later. The sketchy gear was improved at the start of the corner (we'd actually considered a bolt previously).

Also, a couple months ago we discussed the possibility of the line finishing directly up instead of traversing out right (we'd originally considered this). The route now finishes this way, past an additional bolt.

P-1
Start same as for Sly Hooks. Climb past same 2 bolts to the ledge. Move up past gear and a bolt into the corner on great jugs. Get some crucial gear here (.5 camelot - see picture) and work out a funky move into the corner. Climb it to the top. From here climb up past 2 more bolts to an anchor. Two options exist for the finish - straight up is about 11c, right and up is 11a or so.

Location

Same start as Sly Hooks. Climbs the obvious right facing corner just to the left of Sly Hooks.

Protection

Small nuts and cams to #3 camelot. Make sure the gear at the crux is good as there is ledge-out potential if it pulls.

Photos

Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
1 of the carabiner anchors was a bit sketchy, look like it saw many top-ropes. I replaced it. Jan 19, 2015
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I thought the gear was good. The jug at the roof made it easy to figure that piece out. The direct finish is the way to go. Really enjoyed the pump at the last two bolts. No reason this should get an avoid rating. How about the #5 Rock on Inner Peace? Classic NC trad, this one is easier to place. Nov 13, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
No, I think it would have been best to add a bolt first to make it safe. I hear that's all the rage these days...

Seriously though, the gear is good - see picture.

Update 1/29: We'd previously discussed a direct finish and another anchor last time I was there. It's been a couple months, but I got back out there today and decided to add it since the line seems to be getting a good bit of traffic these days. Jan 7, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Bruce, sorry to hear you had such a bad experience on the route. I've heard pretty okay reviews from other folks that have climbed it, so I'm a little surprised. Unfortunately the natural features on the wall dictate how the route climbs, and I definitely agree that solid gear at the base of the corner is paramount (the gear is quite good if you place it ~ .5 camelot). As is the case with a lot of routes in this region, it's probably more suitable as a top-rope ascent for some climbers. Jan 7, 2013