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Early Access
Routes in D. Futurescape Wall
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A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blue Collar S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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El Jefe S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 37.65773, -107.80962 |
| FA: | Ben Griffen, Drew Hoch, Erik Durgin |
| Page Views: | 2,108 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Erik Durgin on Oct 2, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Description
Are you looking for a big steep .12a? Well now Cascade's got one! Thuggy and juggy is the name of the game on this route.
Start on a beautiful blue face of "harder-than-it-looks climbing" past the first bolt to a good stance under the second. from here the route gets steep and powerful as you climb through big undercling and layback features. Get a good rest on a big, left-facing fin (knee-bars anyone?) just past the 4th bolt. From there, work your way far left under a big roof to gain a good hold at the lip, make a few more strenuous moves, and you're home free on the juggy, exposed headwall. Clip the anchors and lower out 20 feet from the wall!
The top half is still a tad dirty, but with some more traffic, I think it will clean up to be a 3 star line.
Location
Start in a big, blue, right-facing corner 20 feet left of Huffy.
The first half of the route climbs a very obvious, wide crack feature (don't worry, no hand jamming or any other awful crack technique is required!). From the fourth bolt, the route zags left under the big roof.
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