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Routes in Green Phantom Rock

Chlorite T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fine Line TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free Acid T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Escape T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Opera House TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phantom Crack far left T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Phantom Staircase Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Staircase Middle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phantom Staircase Right TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Struggle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Rib Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roccocater S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Thing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Phantom, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Jacket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 154 total · 2/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details


I would typify this climb as "trad bouldering" (trouldering?). Although brief in length, awkward, technically demanding climbing combines with burliness in order to make a difficult lead indeed.

Face climb to first bolt, then face/crack climb up a left angling crack using whatever technique works. At the jug capped apex of the crack head slightly right and up using small but solid protection in seams for the last sporty feeling move to gain the ill-placed anchors.

Despite the flared nature of the crack, there are enough pods for gear to make the lead not as serious as it could be.


Technically, not at Green Phantom, but closer to it than any other formation. From Green Phantom Slabs head up the gully to the North. Halfway up, the boulder with Power Struggle on it will be encountered, right of the faint trail/wash coming down the gully.

Alternately, Power Struggle may be approached from above on the PCT by going just past the telephone lines and leaving the trail to go down the gully where the PCT angles East toward Grouse Slabs.


1 1/4" bolt, pro from fingers to 1", two anchor bolts


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