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5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | ??? Probably Rocco Spina |
Page Views: | 2,442 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | philfell on Jul 13, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
If someone has better info on the FA and the actual name of this climb please post and I will update the description.
Down and to the left of the Phantom Staircase climbs there is a lichen covered slab with a left slanting crack.
Climb this left slanting crack to the top of the slab, you can stop here and clip the super old anchors (which are overdue to be replaced in my opinion), or you can look to your right and continue up the obvious stemming slot to the top of the Phantom Staircase climbs. There is a single bolt at the top of this crack which can be backed up by the tree and makes for a good anchor to be lowered back done. Make sure you have a 60m rope because a 50m won't make it back down.
This is probably the easiest climb in the area, but since there is limited info in the book it rarely gets done. It is a good climb for someone looking for their first gear lead, or for a beginner to second it and clean. It could also be TRed if you choose to use the old bolts on top for anchors, not recommended though.
Down and to the left of the Phantom Staircase climbs there is a lichen covered slab with a left slanting crack.
Climb this left slanting crack to the top of the slab, you can stop here and clip the super old anchors (which are overdue to be replaced in my opinion), or you can look to your right and continue up the obvious stemming slot to the top of the Phantom Staircase climbs. There is a single bolt at the top of this crack which can be backed up by the tree and makes for a good anchor to be lowered back done. Make sure you have a 60m rope because a 50m won't make it back down.
This is probably the easiest climb in the area, but since there is limited info in the book it rarely gets done. It is a good climb for someone looking for their first gear lead, or for a beginner to second it and clean. It could also be TRed if you choose to use the old bolts on top for anchors, not recommended though.
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