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Routes in Green Phantom Rock

Chlorite T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fine Line TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Escape T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Phantom Crack far left T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Phantom Staircase Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Staircase Middle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phantom Staircase Right TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Struggle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Rib Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roccocater S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Thing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Phantom, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Jacket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,422 total, 10/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

Yellow Jacket is found about in the middle of the cliff and is the quite obvious smooth face starting about 15' off the ground. The three bolts are easily visible. It is not the larger smooth face seen further left which has 3 routes (5.8,9, and 10) which are toprope only. Clipping the first bolt requires care and getting to and clipping the third bolt is definitely the crux. A very fun route!

Protection

Three bolts to 2 bolt anchor adequately protects this route although clipping the first bolt requires a 5.6 move or so and you are up about 15-20' off the ground.
weiss666
Truckee, CA
  5.9+
weiss666   Truckee, CA
  5.9+
Great slab route, but no way .10+ or even .10-. Aug 13, 2015
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I almost feel like I did a different route than the others here. I found the climbing to be mid-ten for sure. Perhaps this is a reflection of being on the couch all winter, or the fact that I rarely do any slab routes. Get on it and let us know what YOU think. "Update" So four years later I lead this again and this time it seems a lot more casual. Guess I was having an off day last time. Good route! May 13, 2013
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.8+
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.8+
This is a fun little climb, but is not a 10+. This was among my first ten or twenty leads, and even then I didn't find it very committing despite the high first bolt. I have repeated it several times over the years and comparing it to other similar routes in the Carville guide I think it was just a typo that wasn't corrected. It can't be harder than an 8/8+ climbing straight up past the bolts. But you could definately make it harder working left on the licheny arete or easier going right to the gully. The climbing is easy to the first bolt, and well protected after that. An easy 5.10 tick if you own the right guide book. Jun 13, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10b
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10b
I always called this climb 10a or 10b by staying on the true arete. Unexperienced leaders should be careful getting to the first bolt. A fall before then could be bad since you scramble up a bit to start the climb. Aug 24, 2011
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
Interesting to read what others have said.

This was one of my early leads - certainly early face/slab climbing. I started on the right of the bolt line and {who knows why} ended up moving to the left of the line.

I did not find this to be an easy 5.7 or even 5.9, but maybe that is a reflection of my (lack of) experience at the time. I'd be interested to climb this again, several years later, and see what I think.

Something to keep in mind, for early leaders. May 15, 2010
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
I led this route and thought it was about 5.8 when you climb more toward the corner. Oct 10, 2009
agreed... hand holds are tough, but you can dig in with your feet and let your legs do most the work. Sep 1, 2008
Alex Curtis
Rexburg, ID
  5.10a
Alex Curtis   Rexburg, ID
  5.10a
I would rate this route a 5.9+ or 5.10a. It is fairly slanted, and although the holds are tough, it isn't as bad as some of the other climbs on this rock which are rated lower. The route is a scramble up to the slanted rock which made this climb about 45 or 50 feet. Do not climb on the left side of this rock, well you could but that is not the route. Climbing on this side by the crack on the right will make this about a 5.7 or 5.8 Jul 30, 2008