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Routes in Green Phantom Rock

Chlorite T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fine Line TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free Acid T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Escape T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Opera House TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phantom Crack far left T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Phantom Staircase Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Staircase Middle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phantom Staircase Right TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Struggle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Rib Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roccocater S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Thing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Phantom, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Jacket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,900 total · 13/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jun 25, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Phantom Staircase Middle is a very continuous thin face climb that goes up the middle of the face. Staying clear and just left of the obvious wide crack start adds 15' of additional fun face climbing. Small holds are found all the way up with maybe a crux section just shy of the anchors.

Location

See Phantom Staircase Left for info.

Protection

This route can be toproped only from the two bolt anchors. Longer slings are needed to clear the edge.

Photos

Alex Curtis
Rexburg, ID
  5.9+
Alex Curtis   Rexburg, ID
  5.9+
Stay to the left, near and almost over the corner. The phantom left staircase is on the other-side of this corner. It is tough to tell this from guidebooks and drawings, but after climbing this route, it becomes more obvious where the routes must go in order to maintain their appropriate rating. This is a good route to do, if it starts to get too tough, then traverse left where the holds become slightly more positive. If you feel you want more of a challenge, traverse right where the holds begin to become more non-existent. Jul 30, 2008
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
This climb pretty much goes up the middle of the slab, fall line below the TR anchors.

There are 3 or 4 old holes where bolts used to be. If you are passing these, then you are on this route. If you pass an old 1/4" rusty stud sticking out of the wall you are on the 5.8 route to the left. Jul 13, 2009

More About Phantom Staircase Middle

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