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Routes in Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)

Big Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crystal Ether T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Derezzed T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Exacerbation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Expectations T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Marc's Mixup T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Giving Birth T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Midget Love S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Murder in the Dark S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pin Setter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raoul Silva S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rapidfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skyfall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tattle Tales S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twilight Sparkle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vertebrae S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisecrack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Marco Lefebvre
Page Views: 87 total, 1/month
Shared By: Marco on Sep 9, 2012
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route starts on a small pocket between Carmen and Murder in the Dark. The first crux starts just past the first bolt. Use a good pocket to set up into an iron cross using thin edges that will lead to another good pocket. The next crux is at the second bolt where a left foot, no hands dyno will get you onto a thin ledge. Traverse left from here to clip the 4th bolt on Carmen and finish as for Carmen.

Location

Between Where in the World is Carmen Pellegrino and Murder in the Dark.

Protection

5 bolts and an optional cam for the finish. A possible ground fall before clipping the second bolt, but the climbing is not too difficult between the cruxes.

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