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Routes in Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)

Big Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crystal Ether T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Derezzed T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Exacerbation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Expectations T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Marc's Mixup T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Giving Birth T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Midget Love S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Murder in the Dark S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pin Setter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raoul Silva S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rapidfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skyfall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tattle Tales S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twilight Sparkle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vertebrae S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisecrack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Mike Warn c. 2007
Page Views: 1,006 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dru on Oct 16, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Start under the huge log with steps carved into it and climb up a curving groove; at its top, step left onto a ledge (this part is poorly protected but pretty easy).

Now climb up a bolted face. The crux comes at a huge pocket which you mantle and then undercling. Easier climbing above and below.

Location

In between Murder in the Dark and Crystal Ether; look for the giant log with steps cut in it leaning against the cliff.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and an optional poor nut for the groove. Rap anchors on top (shared with Murder in the Dark)

Photos

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Marco  
Added a new start last year that climbs the blank face between the Crystal Ether variation and the original start. The crux is pulling to a good edge from a shallow mono. Took a big ground fall then sent it next go. There is a hump at the base of the wall that will kick you out in a fall which caused me to land on my back next to the rock. Nov 2, 2017
Dru
 
Dru  
 
There's also a new continuation from the Crapo brothers which climbs out left above the last bolt of Carmen, following additional ledges, past two new bolts to a chain station. This avoids the 5.5 trad finish of Carmen, Skyfall and MITD and extends the good stuff a bit longer. Jun 9, 2014
Marco  
I noticed the big jug flake has been pulled off before traversing onto the ledge. This may effect the first crux on Skyfall....but you still have to make the dyno:) Aug 12, 2013
Dru
 
Dru  
 
Variation - start up the first two or three meters of Crystal Ether and then traverse a right-leaning handcrack under the log to reach the ledge below the bolts, instead of taking the original start on the right up the flake. Done this way the pro is to the left of the climber all the way up and you never have to worry about a rope running under your legs as a potential backflip hazard as you pull the crux. Aug 6, 2013
MikeW
 
MikeW  
 
This has been cleaned up recently and I added a gutter to redistribute the runoff so it should stay dry a lot longer now. Several small cams make for some excellent placements at the start for the traverse and in the flake at the top. Jun 1, 2011
Dru
 
Dru  
 
Currently a bit mossed over in the starting groove, a good brushing would help. Often damp in the spring and late fall to start, too. Oct 16, 2010