Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Mike Warn c. 2007
Page Views: 1,250 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Oct 16, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This has two possible starts. Either move up the first few meters of Crystal Ether and take a right-angling crack to the ledge or climb up a curving flake to the right and from its top, step left to the same ledge. The old giant log which used to mark this route is gone since 2016 thanks to some rope rigging and a powerful winch.

Now climb off the ledge up a bolted face. The crux comes at a huge pocket which you mantle and then undercling. Easier climbing above and below.

Location

Just right of Crystal Ether

Protection

6 or 7 bolts. Left hand start takes good gear 1/2" to 2". Right hand (original) start is poorly protected but takes a nut in the groove at top of the flake before stepping left. Rap anchors on top (shared with Murder in the Dark).

Photos

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Dru B.
  5.9
Dru B.  
  5.9
Currently a bit mossed over in the starting groove, a good brushing would help. Often damp in the spring and late fall to start, too. Oct 16, 2010
MikeW
 
MikeW  
 
This has been cleaned up recently and I added a gutter to redistribute the runoff so it should stay dry a lot longer now. Several small cams make for some excellent placements at the start for the traverse and in the flake at the top. Jun 1, 2011
Dru B.
  5.9
Dru B.  
  5.9
Variation - start up the first two or three meters of Crystal Ether and then traverse a right-leaning handcrack under the log to reach the ledge below the bolts, instead of taking the original start on the right up the flake. Done this way the pro is to the left of the climber all the way up and you never have to worry about a rope running under your legs as a potential backflip hazard as you pull the crux. Aug 6, 2013
Marco  
I noticed the big jug flake has been pulled off before traversing onto the ledge. This may effect the first crux on Skyfall....but you still have to make the dyno:) Aug 12, 2013
Dru B.
  5.9
Dru B.  
  5.9
There's also a new continuation from the Crapo brothers which climbs out left above the last bolt of Carmen, following additional ledges, past two new bolts to a chain station. This avoids the 5.5 trad finish of Carmen, Skyfall and MITD and extends the good stuff a bit longer. Jun 9, 2014
Marco  
Added a new start last year that climbs the blank face between the Crystal Ether variation and the original start. The crux is pulling to a good edge from a shallow mono. Took a big ground fall then sent it next go. There is a hump at the base of the wall that will kick you out in a fall which caused me to land on my back next to the rock. Nov 2, 2017