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Routes in Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)

Big Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crystal Ether T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Derezzed T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Exacerbation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Expectations T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Marc's Mixup T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Giving Birth T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Midget Love S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Murder in the Dark S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pin Setter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raoul Silva S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rapidfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skyfall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tattle Tales S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twilight Sparkle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vertebrae S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisecrack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,275 total · 18/month
Shared By: Marc-Andre on Sep 18, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Great Expectations is the dihedral/roof to the right of Exacerbation, It starts in the shallow crack leading up to the tiny ledge from wich you clip the first bolt (to the right) The crux is getting from the bolt to the dihedral and requires balance and footwork, once in the dihedral (which takes chocks very nicely!) layback until you are nearly at the roof. The route goes up and around the right of the roof and tops out to the right of the tree at the top.

Location

The route just to the right of exacerbation (the bolted arete on the left)

Protection

After the one bolt at the crux some larger chocks or smallish cams are required to protect the crack in the dihedral.

Photos


Here I a shot I took of Lisel Petersen climbing the roof out to the left. When I climbed it I felt it was 10+ maybe 11 for the shorter folk. codytuttle.com Jun 21, 2011
Marco  
Some climbers will traverse left to the chains for a slightly harder finish. Jul 5, 2010
I'm not a Harrison climber, but shouldn't the description be to head around left of the roof? Or is there at least a variation that goes out left? Jul 2, 2010

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