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Routes in Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)

Big Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crystal Ether T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Derezzed T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Exacerbation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Expectations T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Marc's Mixup T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Giving Birth T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Midget Love S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Murder in the Dark S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pin Setter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raoul Silva S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rapidfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skyfall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tattle Tales S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twilight Sparkle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vertebrae S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisecrack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mike Crapo, Jason Crapo 2014
Page Views: 418 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dru on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Climb the bolted arete left of Crystal Ether and right of Wisecrack to a chain station on the ledge 25 m off the ground. A potential continuation up the arete above the station will be much, much harder.

Steady climbing with two balancy cruxes, foot work dependent. The grade may change a bit over time as some of the hand holds use grainy flakes.

Location

Single rope gets you down. Lowering will put you at the base of Rapidfire, well to the left.

Protection

10 bolts, rap chain and ring station at top.

Photos

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michael crapo
mission b.c.
michael crapo   mission b.c.
Now that you can get to this station with a set of draws, hopefully the 3 crack lines will stay clean! Please avoid top roping off the ring. Use your own gear if possible, and lower or rap off. Thanx! Jun 18, 2014