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Routes in Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)

Big Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crystal Ether T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Derezzed T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Exacerbation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Expectations T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Marc's Mixup T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Giving Birth T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Midget Love S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Murder in the Dark S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pin Setter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raoul Silva S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rapidfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skyfall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tattle Tales S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twilight Sparkle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vertebrae S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisecrack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gord Bose
Page Views: 1,890 total, 16/month
Shared By: Marc-Andre on May 31, 2008
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Follow long left hand dihedral to the left of the large tree around the corner (to climbers left) from Great Expectations. Easy for the first 1/3 then steepens above for a while. Layback and jam the perfect hand size crack. Crux comes where the route becomes less steep and crack thins, a few akward moves bring you to the base of a large block. Climb past the block to tree and rap hangers.

Location

Around the corner to the left (west) of Great Expectations. Just left of large tree leaning against the cliff. Obvious dihedral is very hard to miss.

Protection

a few hand size peices for the first 2/3 and narrows to fingers for the crux. Good Pro.
Mr. K
  5.9
Mr. K  
  5.9
Untitled from mr k on Vimeo. Sep 18, 2011
The sketchy flake at the top has been removed. The crack under the flake is packed full of tree routes that need to be removed to accept gear, also the corner below needs to to have some debris removed. Be cautious on this route until its cleaned up. Sep 18, 2011
This is a great route. I led it today for the first time and thought it was awesome. I do agree with Mr. K. that the flake at the top seems quite sketchy. Otherwise it's awesome. Aug 28, 2011
Mr. K
  5.9
Mr. K  
  5.9
Great route! Has anyone thought about removing the big block up top below the anchors? Seems like it's only a matter of time before that thing comes down. Aug 27, 2011