Type: Trad, Sport, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches
FA: Jes R. & David Laurienti?
Page Views: 488 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 4, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Details
Access Issue: Parking Details

Description

This is a good, enjoyable line that may be the obvious ascent line for Pulpit Rock. It has many options for a first pitch.

P1a. Apparently, the original start went to the left of the bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13) here.

P1b. There is another start that goes off of a pointy flake, and it has a bolt (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

P1c. This starts are for Tiptoe Through The Tulips and goes left before the 3rd bolt (Griff-Orama, FA 2011) (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13). It finishes on gear. There is also another start to the left on blocky terrain.

P1d. Tiptoe Through The Tulips. Start left of the nadir of Pulpit Rock in a water groove with bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There are 3 variations once you get to the 2nd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). The central variation is the one we took (FA Sierra Dall, 2011). There is a crux slab move after the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). If you force the line up the slab higher, it'll feel at least 5.9. If you use the obvious left groove/flake, it will be easier. At the 10th bolt, there is an obvious ledge / belay stance with a bolt that can be supplemented with a green / blue Alien, 5.8+, ~80'. You may get weird rope drag over this roof.

P1e. Shroom Groove, FA by Denis, 2009. Start the same as for P1d. Veer right after the 2nd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). Groove up the water chunnel past 6 more bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13) to a itty, bitty roof. Pull the roof (right seemed easier). Move up to the bolt and belay, 5.8. Alternatively, you can finish to the left on the finish of P1b.

P2. This is the fun pitch. Move up on easy jugs, place a tiny cam in a horizontal, clip the bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), and make this pitch's crux moves (easier slightly to the right). Move up and then traverse left into the crack system. Follow the crack with delightful climbing at lower difficulty with a bit of runout here and there. The final bit to the belay lacks pro, but you'll find good knobs to the right. Belay at an okay stance with a good crack, 5.8 PG-13, 190'. Save #1 Camalot,0.75 Camalot and/or purple Alien for the belay.

P3. Continue up the crack which widens to a chimney to its top. There is a 2 bolt anchor (which could use chains or slings & rings) (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), 5.6 PG-13, ~60'.

Rappel ~40' to the north. Continue down and east on walking terrain.

Given the bolt chopping, you can move across the chimney to the east and rappel off the slung horn.

Location

This ascends a bolt line (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) to the crack system left of the obvious chimney center-left of the face.

Protection

This can be done with mostly cams from tiny to #3.5 Camalot, 1 #9 hex, ~10 slings. Doubles in the green/blue Aliens, #0.75 and #1 Camalot size are helpful.

Photos