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Routes in Pulpit Rock

Anatomically Incorrect T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Garden Party TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Griff-Orama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Wing Communists T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Peachtree Street T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Praying Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulpit Rock Left T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Right Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shroom Groove TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiptoe Through The Tulips TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vegetative Estate TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk In The Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wight Wing Wadicals T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jay Detweiler & friends? David Laurienti? Jes R.? Scott Kimball?
Page Views: 217 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 17, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Details
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Description

This is the obvious line up the middle of Pulpit Rock's central chimney. It may have been done a long time ago, but details are lacking at this point. If you have more info, let me know and I can update this.

There are a number of different ways to get up to the chimney. Currently either the left or right starts to Griff-Orama seem reasonable.

P1. Climb Griff-Orama either up the crack to the tree, 8, or out right into a groove, back left into a slot of sorts, and up to the hole at the top of the flake, 8, 115'.

P2. The brief crux of the route comes shortly after the belay. There used to be a bolt to protect this move, but now you have to get a green Alien sized cam, move up and left past it. Continue up to the right-facing dihedral and beginning of the chimney. There is a move out left to a flake that keeps this 5.6. Move up and regain the chimney. Continue up to a belay, 8+ PG-13, 130'.

P3. This looks far more challenging than it turns out to be. Chimney upwards staying out of the bottom of the groove using features on both side to protect. Closer to the saddle in the chimney, it is easier to move deeper in the chimney. You can top out left or right, although currently only the right top out has the sling and link for a rappel.

Rappel 40' down the back side of the chimney. Walk down to the right.

Location

This goes up the central chimney feature of the crag.

Protection

A rack to a #4 Camalot works.

Photos

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