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Routes in Pulpit Rock

Anatomically Incorrect T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Garden Party TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Griff-Orama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Wing Communists T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Peachtree Street T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Praying Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulpit Rock Left T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Right Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shroom Groove TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiptoe Through The Tulips TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vegetative Estate TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk In The Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wight Wing Wadicals T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

This is an obvious rock at the trailhead which has avoided description on Mountainproject for quite a bit of time. From the trailhead, this massif of lower angle granite looms less than a quarter mile away. Local inquiries had just led to vague reports of possible ascents on this rock...mostly on the foreground, pear-shaped chunk of granite. Hardware found on the rock suggests ascents probably go back to the 1950s.

Well, there are plenty of opportunities for lower end difficulty adventures here. Much of the rock is significantly less than vertical. Often, the crack systems and protectable features are discontinuous. Some folks have taken to bolting some of the rock here, but don't expect much in the way of pure sport climbing. Still, this may be the shortest approach for multi-pitch climbing in Estes Park.

You can continue upwards to add to your adventure.

There are short routes & projects on the tiny rock, The Blob, to the left of Pulpit Rock.

The rock appears to be on National Forest Service land, but it is Comanche Wilderness.

Sadly, I report as of 5/14/13 that this rock is a site of the latest bolt war in Estes Park.

If anyone has more information, please let me know and I can add/correct information here.

L->R:

A. Tunnel Vision, 7 R, 1p, 180', gear.
B. Left Wing Communists, 9- PG-13, 1p, 200', gear.
C1. Anatomically Incorrect, 5 R, 1p, 190', gear.
C2. Wight Wing Wadicals, 5 R or 8, 1p, 190', gear.
D. Peachtree Street, 8+, 1p, 170', gear.
above D. Pillar, 8+ PG-13, 1p, gear.
above D. Offwidth, 1p, gear.
E. Project (3 Musketeers), 2-3p, bolts & gear.
F. Walk In The Park, 8+ PG-13, 2-3p, gear.
G. Pulpit Rock Left, 8+ PG-13, 3p, gear.
H. Delusions of Grandeur, 8+, 2-3p, gear.
I or J1. Griff-Orama, 8 R, gear.
J2. Tiptoe Through The Tulips, 8+, 1p, 80', TR.
J3. Shroom Groove, 8+, 1p, TR.
J4. Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out, 8+ R, 3p, 360', gear.
K1. Vegetative Estate , 10, 1p, 55', TR.
K2. Garden Party, 11-, 1p, 55', TR.
L. Preacher's Chair, project, 11?, 2p, 140', gear.
M. Praying Hands, 10+, 2p, 400', gear.
N. Old Pin Route, 9 PG-13, 2p, 300', gear & pins.
O. Simply Irresistible, 9 R, 3-4p, gear.
P. Right Side, 8+ PG-13, 2-3p, 300', gear.
Parking Details
Details

Getting There

From Estes Park, head east past the Lumpy Ridge trailhead past Alligator Rock and take the dirt rock to McGraw Ranch trailhead.

From east of Estes Park, head up US 36 to Mall Rd., just east of Lake Estes. Go north on Mall Rd. to US 34. Go west briefly on US 34 to Dry Gulch Rd. Go north on Dry Gulch until it Ts. Take a left (west). Go west briefly on Devil's Gulch Rd to the turn for McGraw Ranch.

There is a sign that can indicate the trailhead is full. There is only room for 14 cars there. Please park closely to other cars or the volunteer rangers may leave notes about being selfish on your windowshield.

There is a cairned path that goes east of the easternmost barn in a near beeline path to the base of Pulpit Rock. You can access some of the western edge of the massif off the North Boundary trail which veers northward shortly after the start towards Sheep Mountain/Bridalveil trail.

Descents

There is a 2 bolt anchor left of the obvious chimney splitting the left-center of the rock. There are no chains, slings, or links on the hangers. It appears folks thread these hangers, but they are not Metolius rap hangers. It's a 35-40 rappel from these bolts. You might be able to downclimb a wide crack and angle right to avoid the overhang at the base...it you were so inspired.

There is a sling around/under a large boulder from just right of the chimney. It's probably <50 feet to rappel to walking terrain. Please check the sling entirely to make sure no rodents have eaten through it.

You hike down easily to the easy from the base of the rappels.

Land Management

This massif appears to be on Comanche Wilderness land, so power drills are not allowed. Also, they prefer camoflauged hangers.

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