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Routes in Pulpit Rock

Anatomically Incorrect T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Garden Party TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Griff-Orama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Wing Communists T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Peachtree Street T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Praying Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulpit Rock Left T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Right Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shroom Groove TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiptoe Through The Tulips TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vegetative Estate TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk In The Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wight Wing Wadicals T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Deb Thompson, Leo Paik
Page Views: 230 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 15, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Parking Details
Details

Description

This line goes up the middle of Pulpit Rock just right of the obvious chimney, Walk In The Park. It is worth a run for the adventure of it. The name is in honor of a wonderful moonlight snowshoe adventure with friends Judy & Ellie out to Bridalveil Falls.

P1. Climb the trad version of Griff-Orama starting just to the left of the nadir of the rock, left of the groove that used to have the bolted line Tiptoe Through The Tulips. The crux is pulling up into the left side of the groove where you can get a low, small cam, but a fall here without that bolt is now a ledger. Belay up in a big hole in a huge flake, 5.8 PG-13/R, ~115'.

P2. This is the meat of the climb. Move up and slightly right onto a slab above a juniper bush. There is a decent runout on a slab up to the gritty crack/undercling where you can get a mediocre small cam perhaps 25 feet up. A #3 Camalot up in the undercling area lets you relax a bit. Now, it is interesting for another 25 feet protected with cams where your feet are on gritty slopers and you get rounded, lichened sidepulls for your hands. Once up in a pod, traverse easily right to a trough. Use long slings on any pro in the trough to reduce drag. Follow a squiggly crack to a decent stance, 5.8+ R, 130'.

P3. The crack looks much less steep up close, but it is longer than it looks. Move up using crack and face moves to the top, 5.8, 115'.

To descend, we slung a horn with a link above the chimney to rappel. The old sling under the boulder was chewed up by rodents.

Location

This ascends the middle of Pulpit Rock starting to the left of the nadir of the rock by ~60', heads up left of the overhang at mid-height, and finishes on the crack in darker brown rock near the top.

Protection

A rack with wires, cams to #4 Camalot.

Photos

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