Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pulpit Rock

Anatomically Incorrect T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Garden Party TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Griff-Orama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Wing Communists T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Peachtree Street T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Praying Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulpit Rock Left T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Right Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shroom Groove TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiptoe Through The Tulips TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vegetative Estate TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk In The Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wight Wing Wadicals T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 190 total, 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 12, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Parking Details
Details

Description

This climb was an interesting find as it showed evidence that this rock has likely been ascended since the 1960s. The vintage hardware is clearly older than most fixed gear in the area. Note, it isn't entirely clear how P1 went, but P2's hardware shows the line. We found this pitch after lowering to clean a stuck cam and spying pins in the crack.

P1a. You can wander up slabs and small overlaps on lightly protectable terrain to the left.

P1b. You can climb over the bulge of Right Side and belay on a ledge, 8+, 100'.

P2. Move left into a crack passing at least 4 ancient, soft iron pitons on fairly licheny terrain. There are a few nice crystals along this stretch. Move delicately on face holds angling rightward to reach a flake below a bush. There were half-eaten slings here, probably evidence of rodent habitation. 9, 110'.

P3. Move up delicately standing on some blocks passing a bush into a wide crack. The difficulty is brief here. Continue up and right to belay at a comfortable spot on the right near a wide-fingers, horizontal crack. 8, 100'.

To exit, scamper up to the top, traverse leftward and down. Find a large boulder under which there is a beige sling and remnants of a cut red sling. Please check the sling in its entirety before rappelling, since rodents chew on some slings here. Rappel 40'. Walk down to the right.

This route really needs a brush, as it feels like it's been a long time since it was climbed (and cleaned).

Location

This is on the right side of the crag. P2 skirts the vertical section with a fixed yellow/green Alien. P3 aims for a widish crack with a bush at its start.

Protection

Gear to a #4 Camalot, 4+ old pins (one pulled with finger strength), long slings.

Photos

0 Comments