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Routes in Pulpit Rock

Anatomically Incorrect T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Garden Party TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Griff-Orama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Wing Communists T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Peachtree Street T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Praying Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pulpit Rock Left T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Right Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shroom Groove TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiptoe Through The Tulips TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vegetative Estate TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk In The Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wight Wing Wadicals T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: Jay Detweiler, 2011
Page Views: 387 total, 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 4, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Parking Details
Details

Description

This is a nice, short sport climb that is worth the effort if you are in the area or the weather is too threatening for a multi-pitch run.

Thanks, Jay, for the update on the route info.

Hop aboard traversing a ledge near a tiny tree. Move upwards past 2 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There is a slightly balancy move past bolt 3 (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). After clipping the 4th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), you engage the crux sequence staying slightly left. The clipping jug for the 5th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) seems somewhat fragile. After getting the 6th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), you may find a #5-7 BD wire or small Alien more comforting, but you don't need them.

There is a 3 bolt variation (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), Garden Party, to the right after the 3rd bolt that in October was.

The locking biners at the anchor (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) tend to twist your rope.

Location

This is the obvious bolt line just right of the water groove with 3 bolted (1 project) (which all seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13) variations left of the nadir of Pulpit Rock.

Protection

6 protection bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), optional #5-7 BD wire or small Alien, 2 bolt anchor (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13) with 2 locking biners.

Photos

Jayroc  
All good things must come to an end. I was hoping to keep under the radar until my group had had our pick and due to the limited parking. This area has been climbed for some time, but the history has been lost. I have been climbing in this area since 2008.

The lower wall with the bolted routes up the water groove is named the Garden Party Wall. Above is simply The Headwall. Left Flank Right Flank. The 5.10 sport route described here was June of 2011 and named Vegetative Estate by me, Jay Detweiler. The bolted line up the water grove and right (Shroom Groove FA went to a fellow named Denis in Sept. 2009. I bolted and led it May 2010. The center bolted line FA went to Sierra Dall (who was 67) on August 10, 2011. FFA was done by me October of the same year. We intended the slab line to be pure slab by staying out of the obvious cracks and run it as a pure slab. The left line up the water groove is called Griff-Orama. FA was done March of 2011 and is still his project. The crack to the left in the left-facing dihedral was also put up in August 2009 as a trad direct start to the headwall and is named Delusions of Grandeur. The bolted routes were set up to either be a single pitch or the beginning pitch to the headwall.

We have been to be as low impact and unobtrusive to the area as possible. Hangers are color cordinated with the rock, and I ask that everyone do the same and respect the area.

We have up up more routes and names for the area, but my time on the 'puter has run out. I will fill in more of the gaps as I can.

Thanks
Jay Sep 5, 2012