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Routes in Moon Wall

Bust a Move S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fritz Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggle Box T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Age T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Home Schooled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Making Whoopie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Neon Parks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nodes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Off My Rocker T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rocket in my Pocket T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabasco Fur T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tobasco Fart T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to the Meadow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter Harvest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Reggelbrugge, Blaze Davies 1987
Page Views: 701 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jake Jones on May 29, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start at a tree growing out of a small ledge. Large hueco to the right of the tree about 12 feet up. Climb thin crimps and small holds until you gain a ledge 20 feet up. From the ledge, 40 feet or so of gorgeous crack and friendly holds lead you to more good holds in the form of plated jugs and some face climbing. Head for a notch in the lip of the cliff.

Location

Immediately left of Piss Pot Ledge. You can't miss the start of the route, as it is marked by a tree and a large hueco and an obvious notch in the lip of the cliff with a large tree at the top. Left end of Moon Wall. If you walk until the fire road gets close to the rock at the far end of Lower Meadow, you've gone too far.

Protection

The crack offers plentiful pro of almost any size from 3 to .3. The last chunk of the route is slightly runout, but adequate protection can be found. Sling the large tree when you top out for an anchor. Two bolt anchor recently installed in either late 2012 or early 2013.

Photos

BredStache
  5.7 PG13
BredStache  
  5.7 PG13
Good route. You can get a 0.5 Camalot in a nice pocket just below the hueco in the desciption for your first piece (I pre-placed this a'la trad stick clip on rappel from Truancy Man). The rest of the climb I protected with nuts (five or so) and a natural. choices for pro are many and bomber! There is an awesome chock stone about 3/4 of the way up where there is little other pro available. Jun 29, 2012