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Routes in Moon Wall

Bust a Move S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fritz Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggle Box T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Age T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Home Schooled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Making Whoopie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Neon Parks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nodes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Off My Rocker T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rocket in my Pocket T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabasco Fur T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tobasco Fart T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to the Meadow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter Harvest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Artz
Page Views: 350 total, 5/month
Shared By: Felix Duvallet on Jul 16, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is really a great "sport" route that happens to be missing a bolt (but instead has a perfect mail slot to put a small cam in).

The first bolt is fairly high, another small cam can be used to protect the moves up to it. Then climb straight up, making long moves between good holds, with several nice rests. The balancy crux at the end is awesome!

Location

Right of Bust a Move, near the waterfall.

Protection

4 bolts, but you should bring a few small cams to protect the runout after the 3rd bolt (the guidebook is incorrect).

The 2-bolt anchor is shared with Bust a Move.

Photos

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SmithVentures
Fayetteville, West Virginia
SmithVentures   Fayetteville, West Virginia
Attempted this without the gear beta....not sure that the book listed it as mixed. I definitely had someone on the sport line to the left stick clip the runout bolt for me while I waited patiently at the bottom of a huge rail. After doing the moves to the bolt, I'm glad I had the clip up for it. Next time, I'll bring a cam. Sep 27, 2017
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Purple or blue tcu is great between bolts 2 and 3. The crux on this route is one of the coolest sequences I've done anywhere. Oct 2, 2013