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Routes in Moon Wall

Bust a Move S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fritz Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giggle Box T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Age T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Home Schooled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Making Whoopie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Neon Parks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nodes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Off My Rocker T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rocket in my Pocket T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabasco Fur T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tobasco Fart T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truancy Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to the Meadow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter Harvest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kenny Parker, Kevin Parker, and Eddie Begoon
Page Views: 1,197 total, 12/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Deceptively difficult - a "Sunday drive" with a major roadblock.

Waltz up to stance below roof. Proceed briefly into thin dihedral. Make challenging clip and move left sequentially to arete (crux). Cruise left side of arete to top.

Location

Left side of Puppy Chow area. Left of mega-classic testpiece/arete Mango Tango (5.13d/14a), left of waterfall, past 3 mixed routes. Starts on stairstepped rock below obvious corner dihedral.

Protection

6 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.
Nathan Sick  
 
I agree that the crux traverse is fun, but hard for 10c and falling before clipping the third bolt could land you on the slab, and another option is to do two moves up into the dihedral and clip the third bolt, and then downclimb back into the crux. Sep 12, 2016
A really nice route but definitely sandbagged.

Though it's possible to traverse right under the roof, it's probably easier (and safer) to climb into the dihedral and make a really thin traverse left *after* clipping the bolt on the face. Jul 16, 2012