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Routes in Shield

Chicken Chop Suey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Knife Edge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Odyssey, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Once In A Blue Moon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Procrastination T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Promise Land, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Purple Haze T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A4+ R
Rainbow Dancer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Route 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipping Into Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smorgasbord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard S Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Davito Hammack, John Kear, Eli Lynn
Page Views: 2,624 total · 38/month
Shared By: KevJ on May 5, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details
Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. Details

Description

Purple Haze is 10 pitches give or take depending on which finish you choose. The first ascent finished via Cowboy's Delight 5.9 A2+.

PITCH 1- Climb the first pitch of Orange Sunshine to start Purple Haze. Starts up a right facing feature with sparse gear and brush to a right facing corner and ledge with 2 bolts.

PITCH 2-Start up left on the ramp to a bulge protected by a bolt. Continue up past a couple more bolts to some flakes and ledges ending at a bolt and belay below a steep slab just left of the "little rainbow".

PITCH 3 - I was confused here...I think Eli clipped the belay for rainbow route. I started up left of the belay and ran it out for like 50 feet on 5.8/9 climbing. My first piece was a beak after the run out and into the direct aid climbing. A little scary. I then aided up A3 to a bolt and the bushy ledge. We shared the same belay as Orange Sunshine here.

PITCH 4 - "The Wild West Show" Start out with some free climbing up right then left into aid on the blank face. Seem looks like nothing, but it's there. Beaks, hooks, rurps, heads...I think a couple cams along the way. Heads and hooks out the rainbow overhang. A4+ cause if you blow it...well...probably hit the bushy ledge and your belayer. We blew a couple cables on rurps so there is some iron in the seam.(might be able to bring cord to save placements) Left heads fixed in Rainbow as well (probably bad by now if they haven't been cleaned!) Bolted belay and a great bivy. Safe from rock fall.

PITCH 5 - "9 to 5 Pitch" Took Eli that long...hence the name. Tricky move off the belay to get into it. Then climb straight up and right to a "break" in the roof system. Belay about 20/30ft above the break. Jason did it pretty quick though. He wasn't drilling and figuring it out as bad as Eli. Jason didn't think it was that hard, but it was a scary clean. I felt A3.(Jason has corrected me on this!)haha

PITCH 6 - Climb the obvious ramp up and left. Then climb straight up into the left facing corner to a ledge and belay. 5.10

PITCH 7 - Climb straight up the bushy left facing corner and up into an awkward 5.11 bombay off width. Super fun! You guys will love it promise! Belay from the big ledge system below the cyclops at some good pines. This ledge system is called the "Speed Bumps".

PITCH 8 - Start up Cowboys Delight via easy face climbing to gain a crack system that takes you straight into the "Cyclops Eye" roof of Cowboys Delight. 2 bolt belay got replaced with new 3/8" bolts during this ascent. 5.9

PITCH 9 - Work up through a bulge via a thin crack and continue up the face until the crack meets the clean right facing corner. Continue up the corner and turn the roof at the left edge. A few hooks take you to another 2 bolt belay with a small stance. We also replaced these bolts with 3/8". A2

PITCH 10 - Super classic top out for the sandias! Start straight up and get into the right facing corner. Follow the right facing corner which is like a spiral staircase up and through the cyclops until you top out! Looks steep, but moderate 5.9 climbing. fairly good rock, but beware of loose stuff on this pitch. There has been a fixed pin right at the top, but it is very old and the rock is rotten. Set belay off a tree on top to be safe. Great bivy spot right on top as well. Lots of bears lately so note that. They're not dangerous unless your an idiot.

Took us 3 days. I spent several hours on the Wild West Show. Otherwise it went by fairly smooth for the second ascent with my good friend Jason Patton. I think it's a classic! I have an original topo given to me by Davito Hammack. I will post it once I get a chance along with revise this post.

Location

Located right of Procrastination and left of Rainbow Route. A very Direct line on the Southeast face of the Shield.

Protection

double set of cams to #4. assortment of hooks, nuts, heads, pins...basically everything except the kitchen sink. Can probably climb it with out a portaledge if you bivy on the bushy ledge of pitch 4 or on the speed bumps. We took a double ledge!

Photos

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I broke a little flake off just up from the belay testing a hook. I couldn't find anything else there so I drilled a bat hook hole. I suppose that makes it easier now. Either way, I thought that pitch was awesome and quite hard. Sep 26, 2016
Hey Kevin and Jason. I heard Jason altered the pitch, so how can you tell how hard it was? Sounds like I was the only one to actually climb it the way it was. Maybe I am wrong. I don't mean to implicate slander. Sep 18, 2016
franciscov
Albuquerque, NM
franciscov   Albuquerque, NM
love to see the topo. Sounds like fun Jul 10, 2012
Funny to here Kevin say I didn't think the 9-5 was that hard. I must have been pretty inflated after that one. I sure remember it being hard, with some really difficult downward traversing nailing and some intricate heads out a big roof. I blew a #0 circle head with a little bounce and got suuuuper lucky when a #1 head caught my static fall and saved my ass from taking a ride over the sharp looking edge below. Big potential for harmful falls on that one. A3 for sure. But yeah, right, it wasn't that hard for me. No big deal. May 5, 2012