Slipping Into Darkness
Avg: 2.8 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Ron Beauchamp, Gary Hicks, 6/18/1976 FFA: Hans Brede, Peter Prandoni|
|Page Views:||2,325 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Oct 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Seasonal Falcon Closure Details
The Shield is closed from February through mid-August for peregrine falcon nesting. The Knife Edge is open year-round.
Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. Details
The USFS-imposed closure applies to UNM Spire, the Prow, the Ramp, and the Shield (but not the Knife Edge). The Needle, and its south and east approaches, are unaffected.
DescriptionThe cleanest line on the SW buttress of the Shield, with a couple of very memorable pitches around a giant roof.
Note: Sandia Rock gives this route an 'R', but its topo only shows an 'R' for 5.8 pitches shared with Procrastination; the 5.10 leads protect adequately if you're comfortable with small pro.
Pitch 1: Start as for Procrastination with a 5.8 boulder problem behind the aspen trees and the only giant boulder. Traverse left and angle up a 5.4 ramp to a 2-bolt belay. Other options on this start exist also. (5.8)
Pitch 2: Move left 10' and pull through a steep section. Move left to the arete and around the corner , or continue up the blocky prow and move left later on. A 2-bolt belay is reached below the clean open book. (5.8) [According to the Hill guide, a 5.10 direct start could be used to reach the same point, probably in 2 pitches also]
Pitch 3: Follow 5.9 corner with stemming/chimney moves with one memorable bush to the corner below the roof, and set a hanging belay or link into the next pitch (watch for rope drag!).
Pitch 4: Traverse right just below the 20' roof, turn the biggest 5.10 roof in the Sandias on the right. Fun!!! Move up 10', swing left on a big hold to a bolt and belay. You can combine this with the previous pitch or the next pitch, but watch out for rope drag if linking pitches. (5.10c)
Pitch 5: Stem & lieback up the thin corner (RPs/thin gear) to the biggest tree above, then traverse right along a ledge to the "bivi ledge" atop Chicken Chop Suey or Procrastination. (5.10c) [In Hills' book, it suggests the original route moves left near the top of this pitch, and follows an independent 6th pitch of mid 5th class, joining Procrastination at the top of that pitch rather than at the bivi ledge.]
Pitches 6-11: Finish as for Procrastination, with a few options to choose from based on motivation and ability. The Odyssey is recommended and is a reasonable choice for those able to send the 5.10 on Slipping Into Darkness.
LocationThis climb seeks out the open book on the prow left of the big offwidth crack (Chicken Chop Suey dihedral), and begins as for Procrastination and CCS.
Start behind the boulder in the aspen grove at the base of the talus slope. A water streak marks the beginning.