Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shield

Chicken Chop Suey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Knife Edge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Odyssey, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Once In A Blue Moon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Procrastination T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Promise Land, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Purple Haze T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A4+ R
Rainbow Dancer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Route 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipping Into Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smorgasbord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard S Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ron Beauchamp, Gary Hicks, 6/18/1976 FFA: Hans Brede, Peter Prandoni
Page Views: 2,325 total · 19/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 26, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Falcon Closure Details
Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. Details

Description

The cleanest line on the SW buttress of the Shield, with a couple of very memorable pitches around a giant roof.

Note: Sandia Rock gives this route an 'R', but its topo only shows an 'R' for 5.8 pitches shared with Procrastination; the 5.10 leads protect adequately if you're comfortable with small pro.

Pitch 1: Start as for Procrastination with a 5.8 boulder problem behind the aspen trees and the only giant boulder. Traverse left and angle up a 5.4 ramp to a 2-bolt belay. Other options on this start exist also. (5.8)

Pitch 2: Move left 10' and pull through a steep section. Move left to the arete and around the corner , or continue up the blocky prow and move left later on. A 2-bolt belay is reached below the clean open book. (5.8) [According to the Hill guide, a 5.10 direct start could be used to reach the same point, probably in 2 pitches also]

Pitch 3: Follow 5.9 corner with stemming/chimney moves with one memorable bush to the corner below the roof, and set a hanging belay or link into the next pitch (watch for rope drag!).

Pitch 4: Traverse right just below the 20' roof, turn the biggest 5.10 roof in the Sandias on the right. Fun!!! Move up 10', swing left on a big hold to a bolt and belay. You can combine this with the previous pitch or the next pitch, but watch out for rope drag if linking pitches. (5.10c)

Pitch 5: Stem & lieback up the thin corner (RPs/thin gear) to the biggest tree above, then traverse right along a ledge to the "bivi ledge" atop Chicken Chop Suey or Procrastination. (5.10c) [In Hills' book, it suggests the original route moves left near the top of this pitch, and follows an independent 6th pitch of mid 5th class, joining Procrastination at the top of that pitch rather than at the bivi ledge.]

Pitches 6-11: Finish as for Procrastination, with a few options to choose from based on motivation and ability. The Odyssey is recommended and is a reasonable choice for those able to send the 5.10 on Slipping Into Darkness.

Location

This climb seeks out the open book on the prow left of the big offwidth crack (Chicken Chop Suey dihedral), and begins as for Procrastination and CCS.

Start behind the boulder in the aspen grove at the base of the talus slope. A water streak marks the beginning.

Protection

Cams: 2 ea. from 0.5" (#0 TCU) to 1.5" (red camalot); 1 hand size cam, 1 #00 TCU or Black alien; nuts including RPs; ball-nuts optional.
mtnrobb
 
mtnrobb  
 
Felt harder than Mountain Momma to me... Not sure how you can really climb the lower section in as few pitches as mentioned... I climbed well past the first pitch anchors to start, and could not have made the bolted anchors mentioned as the to finish pitch 2 without a ton of rope drag. Oct 26, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
Very interesting, Mono. My partner on this one said that the crux on Mt. Momma is less difficult than the harder parts of this one. Sounds like I better get on Mt. Momma soon for some first-hand verification!
Nonetheless, I would agree that the crux sections on this route are over quickly and the angle is generally laid back. Oct 27, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Its been many years since I did this, so my memory is hazy, but my impression was that this "10c" was quite a bit easier than other Sandia 10c's such as Mountain Momma or Great Escape. I think this might be due to the fact that 'Slipping' is less steep, and so, is less physical. Also, it seems Mountain Momma is much more sustained at the grade. 'Slipping" is basically 5.8 with one 5.10 pitch (and even that pitch isn't terribly sustained). Oct 27, 2007