Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shield

Chicken Chop Suey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Knife Edge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Odyssey, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Once In A Blue Moon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Procrastination T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Promise Land, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Purple Haze T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A4+ R
Rainbow Dancer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Route 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipping Into Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smorgasbord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard S Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gary Hicks and Sean Whelan
Page Views: 1,873 total, 15/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 26, 2007 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Falcon Closure Details
Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. Details

Description

This 5-pitch climb finds a proud clean face and striking arete on the top of the Shield. However, a loose exit pitch detracts and may be horrifying for those not expecting it.

It's a good finish to the Procrastination/ ChopSuey routes too, if you've got time and motivation when you reach the upper reaches of the Shield.

Pitch 1: A short and dirty right facing dihedral 5.8 with some of your own gear for pro. Or, if starting from Procrastination, from the belay at the base of the black wall, angle up and right 5.7R directly to the top of the first pitch.

Pitch 2: Move up and right a few feet from the belay, clip bolt, then fixed pin, then angle up and left on thin 5.10a traverse to the arete (crux). 15' of easier arete to 2-bolt belay. No rack needed, all bolts and pins. Quality.

Pitch 3: Awesome 5.8 arete with jugs to a 2-bolt anchor just left of the arete. Excellent climbing, no rack needed. You can easily link p2 & p3 with a 60m rope, if you have lots of draws.

Pitch 4: "The Eiger pitch" Cracks, flakes, and fins, protected by continuous fixed pins close together. Not as loose as the name suggests, but still heads-up for knocking stuff down (5.9). Stop at a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 5: Move right around the corner and continue up dubious blocks, keeping an eye out for fixed pitons, which are sometimes hard to find among the many blocks and cracks they could be in (5.8). I thought this was scary because of sketchy blocks. All pro is fixed on this pitch too. A fixed pin is present as a directional at the top. Pitches 4 & 5 can be linked with a 60m rope and lots of draws.

Location

The striking arete left of the Cyclops Eye is the goal of this route. You can get here by climbing Procrastination or adjacent routes to the Speed Bumps.
Alternatively, you can rap the route in from the top, single 60m rope probably ok. Make sure you're over the Odyssey when you start the raps. You'll need to leave stuff at the 2-bolt anchors, but you can pick it up on the way back out. Static line might help to tie off a tree at the top to set the first rappel.

Rappel-in approach details, Courtesy of Lee B.
To find where to rap in. As you hike along the trail at the top of the Shield heading NW, when the trail comes into an clearing and there is a slightly twisted mostly dead tree about 10-15' tall at about 10 o'clock, I also placed a 10' long dead log perpendicular to the trail on the left at this point, head off the trail towards this tree then down to the top of the cliff. This should put you at a small healthy tree about 6' tall and about 10' from the edge of the cliff on a section that sticks out slightly further than the rest. If you look to your left you should be able to see the steep blocky stuff that Escape from the Cyclops traverse through and looking to your right you will notice that the wall is more broken and less steep. Using the young healthy tree or a larger tree about 30'+ back you can either rap to your left which runs down a nice little ramp into a dihedral and has a pin on what would be the left wall of the dihedral as you are looking down and at about shoulder height if you are standing at the bottom of the little ramp, which is Cowboys Delight. Or rap to your right which should be The Odyssey. All rights and lefts are as you are looking out off the top of the cliff.

Protection

All pro is fixed pitons and bolts for the top 4 pitches, so you'll need only runners/draws. 12 is plenty if not combining pitches, if linking you'll need more (like 18?), or skip pitons/backclean sometimes. The first pitch would require a few small to mid size cams or nuts, but if rappelling in, you could just start with p2. If you climbed up to get to this route, you've got enough stuff.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
To find where to rap in. As you hike along the trail at the top of the Shield heading NW, when the trail comes into an clearing and there is a slightly twisted mostly dead tree about 10-15' tall at about 10 o'clock, I also paced a 10' long dead log perpendicular to the trail on the left at this point, head off the trail towards this tree then down to the top of the cliff. This should put you at a small healthy tree about 6' tall and about 10' from the edge of the cliff on a section that sticks out slightly further than the rest. If you look to your left you should be able to see the steep blocky stuff that Escape from the Cyclops traverse through and looking to your right you will notice that the wall is more broken and less steep. Using the young healthy tree or a larger tree about 30'+ back you can either rap to your left which runs down a nice little ramp into a dihedral and has a pin on what would be the left wall of the dihedral as you are looking down and at about shoulder height if you are standing at the bottom of the little ramp, which is Cowboys Delight. Or rap to your right which should be The Odyssey. All rights and lefts are as you are looking out off the top of the cliff.

OH and John, you can have Cowboy's Delight. Sep 14, 2008
Pretty easy to get your ropes stuck here. Rap in direct but watch your knot! Aug 5, 2008
Alam  
P2, P3 and P4 are great.

I just wanted to add a warning. We ran P4 and P5 together racing a thunderstorm this last summer. Somewhere in the middle of following P5 I took a large rock to the helmet - obviously the rope knocked it lose. We had gone straight up from the last 2 bolt anchor and stumbled into a LOT of lose stuff - probably best to angle right. Heads up.

Also - we ended up rappelling in a little off target and rap through "Cowboys Delight". Not pretty - luckily someone had added a new bolt to the 2nd rappel station down. Avoid this rappel. Make sure you are rapping directly on the arete that makes up the "The Odyssey" Feb 26, 2008