Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Gary Hicks and Sean Whelan|
|Page Views:||2,563 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Oct 26, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
It's a good finish to the Procrastination/ ChopSuey routes too, if you've got time and motivation when you reach the upper reaches of the Shield.
Pitch 1: A short and dirty right facing dihedral 5.8 with some of your own gear for pro. Or, if starting from Procrastination, from the belay at the base of the black wall, angle up and right 5.7R directly to the top of the first pitch.
Pitch 2: Move up and right a few feet from the belay, clip bolt, then fixed pin, then angle up and left on thin 5.10a traverse to the arete (crux). 15' of easier arete to 2-bolt belay. No rack needed, all bolts and pins. Quality.
Pitch 3: Awesome 5.8 arete with jugs to a 2-bolt anchor just left of the arete. Excellent climbing, no rack needed. You can easily link p2 & p3 with a 60m rope, if you have lots of draws.
Pitch 4: "The Eiger pitch" Cracks, flakes, and fins, protected by continuous fixed pins close together. Not as loose as the name suggests, but still heads-up for knocking stuff down (5.9). Stop at a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: Move right around the corner and continue up dubious blocks, keeping an eye out for fixed pitons, which are sometimes hard to find among the many blocks and cracks they could be in (5.8). I thought this was scary because of sketchy blocks. All pro is fixed on this pitch too. A fixed pin is present as a directional at the top. Pitches 4 & 5 can be linked with a 60m rope and lots of draws.
Alternatively, you can rap the route in from the top, single 60m rope probably ok. Make sure you're over the Odyssey when you start the raps. You'll need to leave stuff at the 2-bolt anchors, but you can pick it up on the way back out. Static line might help to tie off a tree at the top to set the first rappel.
Rappel-in approach details, Courtesy of Lee B.
To find where to rap in. As you hike along the trail at the top of the Shield heading NW, when the trail comes into an clearing and there is a slightly twisted mostly dead tree about 10-15' tall at about 10 o'clock, I also placed a 10' long dead log perpendicular to the trail on the left at this point, head off the trail towards this tree then down to the top of the cliff. This should put you at a small healthy tree about 6' tall and about 10' from the edge of the cliff on a section that sticks out slightly further than the rest. If you look to your left you should be able to see the steep blocky stuff that Escape from the Cyclops traverse through and looking to your right you will notice that the wall is more broken and less steep. Using the young healthy tree or a larger tree about 30'+ back you can either rap to your left which runs down a nice little ramp into a dihedral and has a pin on what would be the left wall of the dihedral as you are looking down and at about shoulder height if you are standing at the bottom of the little ramp, which is Cowboys Delight. Or rap to your right which should be The Odyssey. All rights and lefts are as you are looking out off the top of the cliff.