Avg: 2.4 from 9 votes
Routes in Shield
|Chicken Chop Suey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Knife Edge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Odyssey, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Once In A Blue Moon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Procrastination T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Promise Land, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Purple Haze T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A4+ R|
|Rainbow Dancer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Route 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Route 6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Slipping Into Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Smorgasbord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Standard S Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Gary Hicks and Sean Whelan|
|Page Views:||1,873 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Oct 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Seasonal Falcon Closure Details
The Shield is closed from February through mid-August for peregrine falcon nesting. The Knife Edge is open year-round.
Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. Details
The USFS-imposed closure applies to UNM Spire, the Prow, the Ramp, and the Shield (but not the Knife Edge). The Needle, and its south and east approaches, are unaffected.
DescriptionThis 5-pitch climb finds a proud clean face and striking arete on the top of the Shield. However, a loose exit pitch detracts and may be horrifying for those not expecting it.
It's a good finish to the Procrastination/ ChopSuey routes too, if you've got time and motivation when you reach the upper reaches of the Shield.
Pitch 1: A short and dirty right facing dihedral 5.8 with some of your own gear for pro. Or, if starting from Procrastination, from the belay at the base of the black wall, angle up and right 5.7R directly to the top of the first pitch.
Pitch 2: Move up and right a few feet from the belay, clip bolt, then fixed pin, then angle up and left on thin 5.10a traverse to the arete (crux). 15' of easier arete to 2-bolt belay. No rack needed, all bolts and pins. Quality.
Pitch 3: Awesome 5.8 arete with jugs to a 2-bolt anchor just left of the arete. Excellent climbing, no rack needed. You can easily link p2 & p3 with a 60m rope, if you have lots of draws.
Pitch 4: "The Eiger pitch" Cracks, flakes, and fins, protected by continuous fixed pins close together. Not as loose as the name suggests, but still heads-up for knocking stuff down (5.9). Stop at a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: Move right around the corner and continue up dubious blocks, keeping an eye out for fixed pitons, which are sometimes hard to find among the many blocks and cracks they could be in (5.8). I thought this was scary because of sketchy blocks. All pro is fixed on this pitch too. A fixed pin is present as a directional at the top. Pitches 4 & 5 can be linked with a 60m rope and lots of draws.
LocationThe striking arete left of the Cyclops Eye is the goal of this route. You can get here by climbing Procrastination or adjacent routes to the Speed Bumps.
Alternatively, you can rap the route in from the top, single 60m rope probably ok. Make sure you're over the Odyssey when you start the raps. You'll need to leave stuff at the 2-bolt anchors, but you can pick it up on the way back out. Static line might help to tie off a tree at the top to set the first rappel.
Rappel-in approach details, Courtesy of Lee B.
To find where to rap in. As you hike along the trail at the top of the Shield heading NW, when the trail comes into an clearing and there is a slightly twisted mostly dead tree about 10-15' tall at about 10 o'clock, I also placed a 10' long dead log perpendicular to the trail on the left at this point, head off the trail towards this tree then down to the top of the cliff. This should put you at a small healthy tree about 6' tall and about 10' from the edge of the cliff on a section that sticks out slightly further than the rest. If you look to your left you should be able to see the steep blocky stuff that Escape from the Cyclops traverse through and looking to your right you will notice that the wall is more broken and less steep. Using the young healthy tree or a larger tree about 30'+ back you can either rap to your left which runs down a nice little ramp into a dihedral and has a pin on what would be the left wall of the dihedral as you are looking down and at about shoulder height if you are standing at the bottom of the little ramp, which is Cowboys Delight. Or rap to your right which should be The Odyssey. All rights and lefts are as you are looking out off the top of the cliff.