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Routes in Turtle Rocks

40oz of Freedom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
5.11c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chafin' Chaffee T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cherry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cisco Kid T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Scooter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Who T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knobs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knobs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemonis Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robbin' the Hood TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Saw Blade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scalsamine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoulder Season S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smack and Spray S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncle Kurt's Disco T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unloved C2
You Call Yourself a Thief? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Aid, 65 ft
FA: Adam Steel, June 2011, Solo, FFA - Matt Cochran and Dylan Reed, 3/25/14
Page Views: 172 total · 2/month
Shared By: aSteel on Apr 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Unloved starts at a brief overhanging section, then travels through a 30' dihedral followed by three bolts through then a very steep final section. The entire route overhangs by at least 15'.

Location

Unloved is on Matt's Wall, on the Northwest Buttress of Turtle Rock. To the right of Unloved by about 10' is a broken face to a dirty chimney. To the left is a 10c bolted line called Matter Facts.

Protection

A double set of finger-sized down to a purple Mastercam and two hooks, at least one of which must be designed to clear a slight bulge.

Photos

dreed05  
Entire route climbed free as of 3/25/14. Matt Cochran and Dylan Reed. "Soft Steel", 5.12a. We found a pre-placed ballnut above the third bolt. Mar 27, 2014
Hi Adam, looking at this wall closer, it is called Matt's Wall after Matt Bechelhymer (sp) who did all of the crack climbs but probably not the overhanging section at the top that you are doing (in the mid to late '80s). The climb to the left is a 10c called Matter Facts which is technically listed in the guide book as being on the NW Buttress of Turtle Rock. The next climb down to the left is called, Legomyeago at 11a.
It is great to see some interest in this wall as it has potential.
Climb hard and have fun.
Doug Ranck Apr 26, 2012

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