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Routes in Turtle Rocks

40oz of Freedom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
5.11c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chafin' Chaffee T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cherry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cisco Kid T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Scooter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Who T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knobs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knobs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemonis Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robbin' the Hood TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Saw Blade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scalsamine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoulder Season S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smack and Spray S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncle Kurt's Disco T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unloved C2
You Call Yourself a Thief? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:


Turtle Rocks is one of Buena Vista's largest crags. It holds more than 20 climbs including sport, mixed, and trad routes.

Per Hansen Wendlandt: this is not a good area for beginners and kids, because you have to scramble up the most dangerous sections to get to them.

Getting There

From Buena Vista, take CR 371. Take a [right] on CR 375. At the top of the switchbacks, there is a parking area on the left.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turtle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Probably the worst directions and descriptions I've ever experienced at such a popular crag. The so called 'trails' are a mess, and MP folks haven't clarified much of anything about where climbs are, much more than 'this one is next to that other climb that isn't mentioned or described.' The books are in disagreement with each other and with the site, but most of all, what a let down to bring beginner climbers and kids here, because of the lower grade routes, only to find you have to scramble up the most dangerous sections to get to them. Bummer. Jul 5, 2017
D. Shaw  
On Southeast side, the really great route is on the right side. Mix of bolts and a crack section -- start with two bolts on thin face moves up to a roof. Doesn't seem to be mentioned, but we thought it was maybe 10d or 11a. Anyone know what it is? In the climbing guide, there is a 10b mentioned, but this was not 10b. Also, the two porta-potties were the grossest I have ever seen in my life. No TP and the piles of poop were basically near the toilet seat rim and correct about the party scene and music. Aug 7, 2016
Bryson F
Westminster, CO
Bryson F   Westminster, CO
38.88191, -106.14755. Feb 4, 2015
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
There's plenty of free camping here (even a port-a-john) but this area appears to the local hangout for parties. Be prepared for loud music and random screaming all night. Jun 27, 2008
Quick comment on "getting there" - from Buena Vista, head north on 371 and then turn right (east) onto 375, not left. May 26, 2008
Turtle Rock climbs are a few that are listed here. The guide book refers to this area as Turtle Rock. There are a lot of great climbs here. Aug 9, 2007

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