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Routes in Turtle Rocks

40oz of Freedom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
5.11c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Buttered Side Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chafin' Chaffee T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cherry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cisco Kid T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Scooter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Who T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Johnson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Knobs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knobs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemonis Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lorax, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robbin' the Hood TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Saw Blade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scalsamine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoulder Season S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smack and Spray S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncle Kurt's Disco T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unloved C2
You Call Yourself a Thief? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 8,301 ft
GPS: 38.882, -106.148 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,839 total · 169/month
Shared By: Robby Cribbs on Mar 18, 2007 with updates from Furthermore
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Turtle Rocks is one of Buena Vista's largest crags. It holds more than 20 climbs including sport, mixed, and trad routes.

Per Hansen Wendlandt: this is not a good area for beginners and kids, because you have to scramble up the most dangerous sections to get to them.

I would like to add the sub-area: The Corridor.

The Corridor

The Corridor offers a number of sport routes along with a few trad routes and is located in a narrow corridor south of Turtle Rock. Around 30-50 feet in length, the climbs are in the shade most of the day.

Approach

There are two ways to approach The Corridor both of which are 5-10 minute hikes. The Corridor is located at 38.8808, -106.1476.

If approaching from the south off CR 371:

Drive ~300 yards south from Bob Rock parking area or a few feet past the third tunnel (if heading north on CR 371), and park on the east side of the road (38.8806, -106.1483). This is also the same parking for the crag Almost A Tunnel. From the parking area, hike up the hill (~100 yards) to a notch in the large rocks; this is The Corridor.

If approaching from the north off CR 375:

From the Turtle Rocks Campground, park in the closest parking/camping area to Turtle Rock (38.8815, -106.1468). Hike directly west to the base of Turtle Rock (~100 feet) and then south for ~200 feet on a faint trail to The Corridor.

Getting There

From Buena Vista, take CR 371. Take a [right] on CR 375. At the top of the switchbacks, there is a parking area on the left.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turtle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
You Call Yourself a Thief?
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Cisco Kid
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
40oz of Freedom
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Knobs Up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Saw Blade
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Smack and Spray
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
You Call Yourself a Thief?
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Cisco Kid
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
40oz of Freedom
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Knobs Up
 12
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Saw Blade
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Smack and Spray
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Turtle Rocks »

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Photos

Turtle Rock climbs are a few that are listed here. The guide book refers to this area as Turtle Rock. There are a lot of great climbs here. Aug 9, 2007
Hallie  
Quick comment on "getting there" - from Buena Vista, head north on 371 and then turn right (east) onto 375, not left. May 26, 2008
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
There's plenty of free camping here (even a port-a-john) but this area appears to the local hangout for parties. Be prepared for loud music and random screaming all night. Jun 27, 2008
Bryson F
Broomfield, CO
Bryson F   Broomfield, CO
38.88191, -106.14755. Feb 4, 2015
D. Shaw  
On Southeast side, the really great route is on the right side. Mix of bolts and a crack section -- start with two bolts on thin face moves up to a roof. Doesn't seem to be mentioned, but we thought it was maybe 10d or 11a. Anyone know what it is? In the climbing guide, there is a 10b mentioned, but this was not 10b. Also, the two porta-potties were the grossest I have ever seen in my life. No TP and the piles of poop were basically near the toilet seat rim and correct about the party scene and music. Aug 7, 2016
Probably the worst directions and descriptions I've ever experienced at such a popular crag. The so called 'trails' are a mess, and MP folks haven't clarified much of anything about where climbs are, much more than 'this one is next to that other climb that isn't mentioned or described.' The books are in disagreement with each other and with the site, but most of all, what a let down to bring beginner climbers and kids here, because of the lower grade routes, only to find you have to scramble up the most dangerous sections to get to them. Bummer. Jul 5, 2017

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