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Routes in Turtle Rocks

40oz of Freedom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
5.11c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chafin' Chaffee T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cherry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cisco Kid T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Scooter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Who T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knobs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knobs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemonis Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robbin' the Hood TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Saw Blade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scalsamine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoulder Season S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smack and Spray S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncle Kurt's Disco T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unloved C2
You Call Yourself a Thief? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Doug Ranck, 2008
Page Views: 480 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeff Edge on Aug 4, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun climb. Start from ledge next to some graffiti and just right of Triple Delight, 5.12a. Be careful belaying from ledge, the rock to the sides of route is still chossy, and it's easy to fall off the ledge. There is an awkward move from last bolt to anchors, the route seems to move from the right to the anchors, but there is an older piton to the left of the anchors. We are unsure if the route perhaps moves left and up.

Location

This is on the Northwest face of Turtle Rock under the obvious overhangs. Approach from down by Bob's (strenuous, uphill boulder hopping), or from the north-most side of Turtle Rock's parking/camping labyrinth (walk downhill and follow curve of the rocks left past many unnamed sport routes in the 10/11 range).

Protection

8 bolts, 2 single-ring anchors.

Photos

nate post
Silverthorne
  5.11d
nate post   Silverthorne
  5.11d
It's still a little chossy if you step off route, but overall I thought it was a fun climb. Some of the blocks that looked questionable from the ground felt solid once I was climbing. It doesn't look like this has seen a lot of ascents yet. We had lunch in a nice dry cave just to the right while we waited for the rain to pass. It looks like some local teenagers have enjoyed hanging out here as well judging by the talented rock art. Jun 1, 2014