Elevation: 7,955 ft
GPS: 38.839, -106.133 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 418,617 total · 1,949/month
Shared By: crossad on Jul 3, 2002 with improvements by Eric Simons 1
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Buena Vista (locally pronounced, 'Bew-na Vista') area contains a number of different crags ranging from 40 to 500 feet. With the exception of Holy Water, most of the climbs are in the low, semi-arid mountains on the East side of the Arkansas River Valley. The views of the 14,000' Sawatch Range are phenomenal on just about every route in the valley. The valley has typical Colorado mountain weather in the summer. You will experience the typical afternoon thunderstorms that roll off the high peaks and across the valley. You can often look up and down the valley and spot isolated thunderstorms and climb around them. If a storm is moving across the northern valley, head for Rainbow Rock, if you get a southern or central valley storm, head up north to the Bob's Rock area. Don't make this storm dodging a standard practice, but it is often be pouring at Bob's Rock and dry at Rainbow Rock.

There is fairly solid rock throughout the valley, especially at the developed crags. Holy Water sports some fine alpine granite up Cottonwood Pass road west of town. The area contains 8-10 developed cliffs, including Bob's Rock, The tunnels area, Pumpstation, Split Rock, Elephant Rock, Davis Face, Holy Water, Turtle Rock, and Rainbow Rock. With the exception of Davis Face, all of these crags top out at about 50-100 feet. Davis Face, a large, west-facing cliff about 10 miles from town, stands at about 400-500 feet. Also, some great bouldering is found on the west side of Rainbow Rock. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12. The majority of the routes in the valley are bolted face routes, while some good traditional routes do exist. Although many of the routes in the valley are bolted, one would be wise to carry some traditional gear to supplement. A few topropes are available at Bob's Rock and Rainbow Rock.

Camping abounds to the northeast of town near Turtle Rock and Split Rock and is free. There is also camping in the National Forest west of town in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. The guidebook is available at The Trailhead outdoor shop on the north end of town, and contains local beta for many of the climbs in the valley. You can get just about anything you need in Buena Vista, and if not there's a Walmart in Salida, about 20 miles south of Buena Vista. Kay's and Bongo Billy's coffee are great places to grab a bite and relax after a day on the rocks. Another treat is the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs off of Mt. Princeton Rd. a few miles south of town. Showers can be had near the public river put-in immediately east of downtown BV. In the summer, the valley becomes a whitewater mecca. There are many fine outfitters in town if you want to spend some time in the river.

Ice climbing can be found here.

Getting There

Buena Vista is located in the Arkansas River Valley about 3 hours from Denver and about 2 hours from Colorado Springs.

From Denver: Take US Hwy. 285 for 3 hours west from C-470 past Fairplay to Antero Junction where US Hwy. 285 and US Hwy 24 will join. Continue on what is now US Hwy 285/24 until your reach Johnson Village. Proceed to the T-Stop and turn right onto US Hwy 24. Take US 24 about 2 miles into BV.

From Colorado Springs: Take US Hwy 24 (Cimmarron) west out of downtown. Stay on US 24 until you reach Antero Junction, where US Hwy 285 and US Hwy 24 join. Turn left on what is now US 285/24 and take it over Trout Creek Pass to Johnson Village. Just after Johnson Village turn right and follow 2 miles to Buena Vista.

Guidebooks

Eds. There is a newer guidebook Arkansas Valley Climbs by Tom Perkins for $16.95.

facebook.com/#!/groups/1458…

Climbing Stores

Eds. The Trailhead, 707 Hwy 24 N, Buena Vista, 719.395.8001. www.thetrailheadco.com.

Miscellaneous

If you are coming from the Leadville side & need coffee, bakery goods, or wireless internet, the Provin' Grounds Coffee Shop (508 Main St.) may have what you need.

Organizations

Buena Vista Climbers - Yahoo Group.

The Arkansas Valley Climber's Coalition (AVCC) is the local climbing advocacy group and is an affiliate of The Access Fund”. For those on Facebook: facebook.com/groups/8885341….

372 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buena Vista

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 42
Top Rope Slab
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 42
Chicken Runner
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
The Orange Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
I Can Hear You Now!
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 76
Carter Classic
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Slingin' the Chicken
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
D3
Trad 12 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 62
D4
Sport 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 60
Bob's Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Flakes
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 44
Analog or Digital
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 45
Coax Trax
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Ego Buster
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Spotty Lives
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Top Dawg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Top Rope Slab Bob's Rock
 42
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Chicken Runner Chocolate Tower
 42
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
The Orange Corner Leaning Wall
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
I Can Hear You Now! Transmitter Tower
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Carter Classic Davis Face
 76
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Slingin' the Chicken Chocolate Tower
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
D3 Davis Face
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 12 pitches
D4 Davis Face
 62
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 6 pitches
Bob's Crack Bob's Rock
 60
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Flakes Bob's Rock
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Analog or Digital Transmitter Tower
 44
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Coax Trax Transmitter Tower
 45
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ego Buster Bob's Rock
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Spotty Lives Bob's Rock
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Top Dawg Bob's Rock
 6
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Buena Vista »

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