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Routes in Turtle Rocks

40oz of Freedom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
5.11c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chafin' Chaffee T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cherry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cisco Kid T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Scooter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Who T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knobs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knobs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemonis Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robbin' the Hood TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Saw Blade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scalsamine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoulder Season S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smack and Spray S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncle Kurt's Disco T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unloved C2
You Call Yourself a Thief? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Doug Ranck
Page Views: 739 total, 10/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Jul 3, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb the face and chimney through a bit of bird poo. It is still a little chossy.

Location

This is on the NW face of Turtle Rock. Park in the lot south of Bob's Rock and head SE toward the rock. The climb starts up a chimney.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 ring anchor.

Photos

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Climb the corner through an absolute ton of bird poo*. Several of the bolts are so covered in bird poo that you have to knock chunks off to get a clip in and they're so camouflaged they actually can't be detected from the ground. Somewhat awkward climb, dodging poo seems to bring it into the 10 range. Very chossy too, just about blinded my poor belayer.

As for parking, the approach seems to be shorter from the butt-side of The Turtle walking down and around (just keep staying right as you drive in until it ends in a parking area) walk downhill then follow the rock left. Neighboring routes to the right are Triple Delight, 5.12a, and Smack and Spray, 5.11d. Aug 4, 2012