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Unloved

C2, Aid, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Adam Steel, June 2011, Solo, FFA - Matt Cochran and Dylan Reed, 3/25/14
Colorado > Buena Vista > Turtle Rocks, B… > Turtle Rocks

Description

Unloved starts at a brief overhanging section, then travels through a 30' dihedral followed by three bolts through then a very steep final section. The entire route overhangs by at least 15'.

Location

Unloved is on Matt's Wall, on the Northwest Buttress of Turtle Rock. To the right of Unloved by about 10' is a broken face to a dirty chimney. To the left is a 10c bolted line called Matter Facts.

Protection

A double set of finger-sized down to a purple Mastercam and two hooks, at least one of which must be designed to clear a slight bulge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brian takes a variation at the start of Unloved on the top roped first free attempt.
[Hide Photo] Brian takes a variation at the start of Unloved on the top roped first free attempt.
Sussing out the beginning of the crux.
[Hide Photo] Sussing out the beginning of the crux.
Unloved starts below the first roof, heads left briefly, then follows the dihedral and goes up and out the roof through the 'U' in the skyline.
[Hide Photo] Unloved starts below the first roof, heads left briefly, then follows the dihedral and goes up and out the roof through the 'U' in the skyline.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Ranck
[Hide Comment] Hi Adam, looking at this wall closer, it is called Matt's Wall after Matt Bechelhymer (sp) who did all of the crack climbs but probably not the overhanging section at the top that you are doing (in the mid to late '80s). The climb to the left is a 10c called Matter Facts which is technically listed in the guide book as being on the NW Buttress of Turtle Rock. The next climb down to the left is called, Legomyeago at 11a.
It is great to see some interest in this wall as it has potential.
Climb hard and have fun.
Doug Ranck Apr 26, 2012
dreed05
[Hide Comment] Entire route climbed free as of 3/25/14. Matt Cochran and Dylan Reed. "Soft Steel", 5.12a. We found a pre-placed ballnut above the third bolt. Mar 27, 2014