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Routes in Bracksiek's Pillar

Alpinista Sista S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B Bro T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coo Coo Cachoo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Class T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Eye-Full Tower S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Center S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
L'il Buckeroo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mano Izquierda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oatmeal Stout T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pre-Emptive Strike S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Twilight Years S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brad Schilling, FFA C.Wayment, M. Anderson
Page Views: 1,130 total, 16/month
Shared By: JF1 on Mar 26, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This route ends with the beautiful slightly overhanging thumbstack and thin hands crack. Crack Class shares the less than vertical top. The first pitch is full value with an akward thin slot . Building an anchor as close to the crack on the second pitch will really help out.

Location

It might take a little while to decide on the base. Don't climb up as if for crack class, but rather continue onto the SW side looking for the flaring crack.

Protection

standard rack for the first pitch up to #3 camalots. Heavy on.75 and 1 camalots.

Photos

Dana Prosser
Boulder
 
Dana Prosser   Boulder
 
I had a standard rack +5 red camalots +3 green camalots. Both pitches of this climb are awesome! Jun 9, 2015
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
IIRC, the FA was done by Brad Schilling with aid on the second pitch. The FFA was done by Mike Anderson and myself. Dec 1, 2014
b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
  • *Notes from a conservative climber**
Rack
Doubles .5-3
Plus
Single .3,.4,#4 (#4 is optional)
Extra #1's (total of 5 wouldn't go unused)
Extra .75's (triples would be good)
Extra #3 & #2 (for the anchor at the top of the first pitch - could use smaller pieces, but #3 will permit you to stand up and belay... else use smaller gear and sit on a slanted small ledge to belay. Your call)

No C3's.
Maybe an Grey/Blue BD offset.
No nut's (but big nuts can be used for an anchor instead of the #3 & #2 at the top of the first pitch... many options)

As many #1's as you want (took 5 and used them all.. it is the piece for the upper crack)

Super fun route. 4 star crack for sure.
Route is in the shade until noon-ish. May 20, 2014