Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brad Schilling, FFA C.Wayment, M. Anderson
Page Views: 1,343 total · 15/month
Shared By: JF1 on Mar 26, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


This route ends with the beautiful slightly overhanging thumbstack and thin hands crack. Crack Class shares the less than vertical top. The first pitch is full value with an akward thin slot . Building an anchor as close to the crack on the second pitch will really help out.


It might take a little while to decide on the base. Don't climb up as if for crack class, but rather continue onto the SW side looking for the flaring crack.


standard rack for the first pitch up to #3 camalots. Heavy on.75 and 1 camalots.


b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
  • *Notes from a conservative climber**
Doubles .5-3
Single .3,.4,#4 (#4 is optional)
Extra #1's (total of 5 wouldn't go unused)
Extra .75's (triples would be good)
Extra #3 & #2 (for the anchor at the top of the first pitch - could use smaller pieces, but #3 will permit you to stand up and belay... else use smaller gear and sit on a slanted small ledge to belay. Your call)

No C3's.
Maybe an Grey/Blue BD offset.
No nut's (but big nuts can be used for an anchor instead of the #3 & #2 at the top of the first pitch... many options)

As many #1's as you want (took 5 and used them all.. it is the piece for the upper crack)

Super fun route. 4 star crack for sure.
Route is in the shade until noon-ish. May 20, 2014
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
IIRC, the FA was done by Brad Schilling with aid on the second pitch. The FFA was done by Mike Anderson and myself. Dec 1, 2014
Dana Prosser
Dana Prosser   Boulder
I had a standard rack +5 red camalots +3 green camalots. Both pitches of this climb are awesome! Jun 9, 2015
sam murray
sam murray  
Hands down one of the best cracks in the area. I failed to extend all of my pieces on the first pitch and had tons of rope drag while doing the poop covered traverse on the first pitch. Apr 24, 2018