Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,316 total · 26/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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48 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


Climb up the huge plates on steep jugs finishing at the belay anchor atop the first pitch. 100'. Ascend to the right, then up face to corner to top of spire. 60'. Rappel route.


Located on the north side of Bracksieck's Pillar. Follow trail to upper east side, then cut through notch to nice staging area. The route is just past the notch before the tree. Rappel route.


Bolted. Fixed anchor belay stations. Some protection can be placed between the upper bolts on the first pitch as there's some runout. Medium size cams would suffice.


Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
So which pitch is crux? Book said first but we thought 2nd? Medium cam recommended for shorter climbers to protect getting to the third bolt on 2nd pitch! Jun 6, 2011
Chris Volk
Boise, Idaho
Chris Volk   Boise, Idaho
Incredible climb! Beware of the long runout on 1st pitch. Easy terrain on big holds, but steep and a bit unnerving, nonetheless. Second pitch also has a runout stretch on easy ramp. But this pitch is steep, airy and memorable! Climbing never reaches more than 5.7+ in difficulty. However, the runouts and exposure on the second pitch push the grade up a bit. Well worth doing! May 11, 2014
Thought it was no harder than 5.8. Incredibly featured climbing. The second pitch is def the psychological crux with the amazing exposure. Couple of spots for supplementary pro if you want to place it, though the "runout" sections are incredibly featured and no problem. Will climb this route every time I get the chance. May 20, 2014
Patrick Woods
Twin Falls, ID
  5.8+ PG13
Patrick Woods   Twin Falls, ID
  5.8+ PG13
No doubt that this is my favorite route in the Hills of Castle. Nice diverse climbing, First Pitch has very solid and positive holds, (Some may find comfort in having a #1 Camalot C4 on your rack.) leading to a comfortable belay-station. Second Pitch takes you to an airy-arete with nice exposure (I consider the Arete the crux simply due to the change of mentality that comes with nothing but space below the climber.).
It doesn't hurt to tag line a second rope up for the Rappel, a 70m and 60m joined provides more than enough to safely reach Terra-Firma. =) Apr 6, 2015
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Pitch 2 is incredible!! 5.8 jug hauling on a very exposed arete. Route faces west and thus gets afternoon sun. I found a #1 camalot useful for the pitch 1 runout and think that a shorter climber might want a .4 or .5 on the second pitch to protect the moves before the 3rd bolt. Can easily be climbed on just the bolts though. Highly recommended! Jun 15, 2015