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Routes in Bracksiek's Pillar

Alpinista Sista S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B Bro T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coo Coo Cachoo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Class T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Eye-Full Tower S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Center S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
L'il Buckeroo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mano Izquierda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oatmeal Stout T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pre-Emptive Strike S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Twilight Years S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dale Ralphs, 9/17/06
Page Views: 1,514 total, 16/month
Shared By: Mike Roghaar on Apr 3, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

The new book says 3 pitches but i think the second set of anchors is intended for the decent and can easily be done in 2. Great route with varied climbing and a fun mantle move. A little grainy but with a little more traffic should clean up nicely.

Location

East side of the pillar.

Protection

The book says bolts and a little gear but i diddnt find gear to be necissary at all. Chain anchors.

Photos

FA: Dale Ralphs. He and I climbed this on 9/17/06, long after his FA. BTW Dale might have established other nearby routes. Jan 15, 2017
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
2 days and a bunch of routes later this was, overall, my favorite multi-pitch we did in the area. As Garret said, for the "2nd" pitch put an extended sling on P1 anchors and head up on good holds up the little face. Once you can peak over it you can sling a horn to protect yourself from decking as you do a dynamic move for the lip. Jan 3, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
No gear is needed. A chickenhead can be slung on the way up the "2nd" micro pitch to protect it. Powerful but easy moves to get past it.

Both pitches are solid 5.9, with some improbable and fun movement. Jan 3, 2014
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
Probably the best on the this side of the wall and worth doing if you are in the area (across the way at the Sailor wall is better). We easily combined the first two pitches - you might want a single big wire to protect this second pitch after you step up above the belay. the final pitch has a short cool mantle sequence and then is easy. Sep 17, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
After getting blown off on the first attempt, was able to finish this. I combined 2nd and 3rd pitches but this required some long slings at start of third pitch and belayer cannot see you. Think Carl is right and combining 1 and very short 2nd pitch is best way. A medium nut or small cam is only gear you might want. Two 30 meter raps to ground. Oct 6, 2011
Carl Rene Pelletier
Jackson, Wyoming
 
Carl Rene Pelletier   Jackson, Wyoming
 
The "3rd" pitch made this route (a cool, exposed mantle). We ended up doing it in 3 pitches, but you can run the first and second together. The pro you can plug in is on the "2nd" pitch, but you don't need much (if any...maybe .75 and a few nuts) ... you can also sling a few chicken heads. Sep 12, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
A micro-cam can be placed on the first pitch but is probably not necessary. Jun 6, 2011