Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bracksiek's Pillar

Alpinista Sista S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B Bro T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coo Coo Cachoo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Class T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Eye-Full Tower S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Center S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
L'il Buckeroo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mano Izquierda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oatmeal Stout T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pre-Emptive Strike S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Twilight Years S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 853 total, 9/month
Shared By: Mike Roghaar on Apr 3, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Super route! Start with a curving finger crack (10a) then jam up a nice splitter from fingers to large hands to a ledge. Belay here. Next, Chimney up behind the unprotected giant leaning block, Once on top of the block traverse climbers left to where the block ends, locate hand crack on opposite wall, sack up and step across from the block to the main wall ( a fall here would be bad) and jam up the fun 5.8 hand crack. Build anchor on top and rap down " Pre-Emptive Strike" on the North West Side.

Location

South West side of Bracksieck's Pillar. The starting curved crack is easily seen once on the SW side. Rap the NW side from chain anchors.

Protection

Doubles from .5 to #3 Camalot, set of nuts and TCU's

Photos

you would not die if you blew the step across, def not X. Feb 7, 2017
b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
I am a conservative/safe climber. My rack's are usually more than most people would take, but I like to sow it up.

X Rating is legit for the step across. Not more than 5.7.. but still X.

Rack
Doubles .3-3, Single Yellow C3
Extra .75's for the first pitch
Extra #1's for the second pitch
Nuts Optional


1st Pitch- The arching crack is the hard part. Eats up .75's and a few #1's.
After that it is hero hand crack (#2's #3's).
Anchor ... could use .3's and .4's & Yellow C3.

2nd Pitch
The Chimney is extremely secure and fun... until you have to step across. Take a moment to figure out your best line.
After the step across it is awesome 5.8 thin hands (this the upper section of Cool Crack).
Anchor - Take it to the chains of Pre-emtive Strike. May 20, 2014
The 2nd pitch step-across and slab traverse to the crack are X rated in my opinion - a fall would likely see the rope simply fall down the offwidth and you'd deck into the rock/slab somewhere way down there (assuming the rope didn't cut on something deep in the offwidth). May 30, 2012
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Found the #1 and .75 camalot sizes to work well. Don't forget Cool Crack to the left! Sep 16, 2011