Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,985 total · 37/month
Shared By: Mike Roghaar on Apr 3, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Starts on a slabby rib with some interesting moves. Second pitch is amazing, fun, slightly overhanging, patina surfing goodness.

Location

East side of the pillar, just up from Apinista Sista.

Protection

Bolts and chain anchors, a number 4 camalot could go into the undercling flake at the start of the 2nd pitch but the bolt wasnt to bad to get to.

Photos

Zack Oldroyd
Logan, Utah
 
Zack Oldroyd   Logan, Utah
 
Awesome climb, very unique 2nd pitch. May 9, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8+
Unlike others I was pretty underwhelmed by this route. Kind of generic bolt clipping on all the routes on this entire wall - nothing much different for the various routes other than the grade - Reach up, step up, clip, repeat. There is a single short section at the very end that was interesting. Sep 17, 2012
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
The second pitch is unique and super fun, 4 stars! Grab massive chicken head, mantle, grab another massive chicken head, repeat to the chains. The crux comes right before the the chains. I'd give this 4 stars if it wasn't for the 1 star slabby pitch you have to climb to get to the fun headwall. I thought I might need some gear as there is an offwidth flake as you start the second pitch. You can face climb the flake though and easily reach the first bolt; just a bit intimidating. Sep 21, 2014
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Wow! pitch 2 is one of the best, coolest pitches of rock I have ever climbed - exposed jug-hauling on huge chicken heads! Crux is at the last bolt. Gaining the first bolt (pitch 2) is much easier than it looks. Can place a #3 or #4 camalot before the bolt if you like. Highly highly recommended! Jun 15, 2015