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Routes in Bracksiek's Pillar

Alpinista Sista S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B Bro T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coo Coo Cachoo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Class T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Eye-Full Tower S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Center S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
L'il Buckeroo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mano Izquierda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oatmeal Stout T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pre-Emptive Strike S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Twilight Years S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 110 ft, Grade V
FA: Mike Anderson (solo), D Hernandez D Cruz, and P Heeken
Page Views: 1,227 total · 10/month
Shared By: vernon phinney on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Climbing is on excellent patina granite, pulling on significant jugs/edges. Start with a difficult side pull/balance move off the deck and move up the patina face. 10 feet of easy 5.10 and then cruise the rest of the route at 5.7. There is a second set of anchors at approx 50 feet up so the route can be broken into two pitches if desired. (and also rappelled in two pitches). We used a 70 meter rope and did one pitch lead and rappel.

Location

The route goes up the north face. Starting from the highest point on the north side, scramble around behind a large detached flake of rock moving west along the bottom of the north side of Bracksiecks Pillar until you come to a small tree growing out of the rock. This will be just west of the major weakness that ascends the north face.

Protection

Route consists of bolts but pro can be placed if desired (not necessary) to chain anchors on the face near the top of the pillar.

Photos

Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
The route opens with several moves of 5.10ish climbing, but eases considerably. I don't know why it's rated PG13 here. The climbing was well protected and enormously secure. Do it in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. Jun 24, 2015
My friends Dean Hernandez and David Cruz and I bolted this route after Mike Anderson was said to have solo'd the line. The first anchor was already there from the then climbing ranger Brad Shilling. He had used it to descend from some other route he did. It can be done in one pitch, and I believe lowered with one rope, probably a seventy. I don't remember it being run out either. Apr 16, 2016

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