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Routes in South Star Wall

A Steep Climb Named Desire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ali S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bronco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bucko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cookie Mix S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Father's Day T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Megalomania S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On the Outskirts of Hope S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Star Walls Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taste the Pain S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Warp Factor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki 1988
Page Views: 1,357 total, 19/month
Shared By: Rob Eison on Dec 23, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

To the right of Cookie Mix is the start for a trio of route variations, the best of which is Bronco, an incredibly thuggish but stellar 12d. Work into the awkward, slightly overhanging left-facing dihedral and follow along the right-trending series of overlapping roofs until you encounter a large downward pointing flake. Muscle up and to the right of this and finagle a knee bar rest in an obvious pod before tackling the dramatic undercling traverse beneath the huge roof. Pull up and right in the break as you join the headwall finish for "A Steep Climb Named Desire."

If you pull up and left over the first roof to a set of lower anchors the variation is a 13a called Potlicker.

If you skip the amazing traverse and exit over the roof above the knee bar pod you'll encounter a tough boulder problem on flaring jams and finish on the anchors for "Taste the Pain." This variation is a 13b called Puma.

Location

right of Cookie Mix, 2nd route from the left.

Protection

Approximately 10 bolts most of which have fixed chains. Bring 4 draws for the upper headwall and anchors as these usually aren't fixed.

Photos

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Tahoe Matt
Truckee
Tahoe Matt   Truckee
All of the draws are fixed. You can back clean a few to help with the upper headwall. May 2, 2014