All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > South Star Wall
Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|FA:||Hidetaka Suzuki 1988|
|Page Views:||1,443 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Rob Eison on Dec 23, 2011|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Notes Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
DescriptionTo the right of Cookie Mix is the start for a trio of route variations, the best of which is Bronco, an incredibly thuggish but stellar 12d. Work into the awkward, slightly overhanging left-facing dihedral and follow along the right-trending series of overlapping roofs until you encounter a large downward pointing flake. Muscle up and to the right of this and finagle a knee bar rest in an obvious pod before tackling the dramatic undercling traverse beneath the huge roof. Pull up and right in the break as you join the headwall finish for "A Steep Climb Named Desire."
If you pull up and left over the first roof to a set of lower anchors the variation is a 13a called Potlicker.
If you skip the amazing traverse and exit over the roof above the knee bar pod you'll encounter a tough boulder problem on flaring jams and finish on the anchors for "Taste the Pain." This variation is a 13b called Puma.
- No Photos -