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Calmer Than You Are
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in South Star Wall
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A Steep Climb Named Desire S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ali S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bronco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bucko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Calmer Than You Are T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cookie Mix S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dilletante S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Father's Day T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Juggernut, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Megalomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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On The Outskirts Of Hope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Over The Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Parasite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Star Wars Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taste The Pain S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Time Warp (since broken) S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Vernalagnia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warp Factor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Matt Delheimer and Dany Huberman, 07/20 |
| Page Views: | 716 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Lurker - on Jul 19, 2020 |
| Admins: | Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Description
Start up a splitter crack, then mantle onto a sloping ledge. Step a bit left and make a move off the ledge to clip a bolt (don't miss the small cam in a horizontal seam below to protect this). Campus out right along a juggy rail past another bolt, with the crux at the very end, making a funky mantle/rockover to reach the anchors.
There is another set of bolts that heads right along the arete where the crack ends. It's called a 5.12+ project in the Horniak guide, but might be more like 5.13+. You can try it on the way down, good luck.
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