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Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker)
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in South Star Wall
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A Steep Climb Named Desire S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ali S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bronco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bucko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Calmer Than You Are T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cookie Mix S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dilletante S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Father's Day T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Juggernut, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Megalomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Narcissist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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On The Outskirts Of Hope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Open Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Parasite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scruples S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Star Wars Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taste The Pain S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Time Warp S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Vernalagnia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warp Factor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Scott Frye, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 316 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Luke EF on Jul 3, 2020 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Kyle Bishop, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
One of the less-trafficked variations on the Bronco line. Instead of clipping the fourth bolt on the right face of the dihedral, clip the chain draw out left. Continue up the dihedral as for the other lines, but instead of continuing up and right, bust out left after gaining the finger ledge at the top of the dihedral. Clip the 5th bolt from the good holds and gear up for some crack bouldering wizardry.
The business on this one is quite brief, but if the words "crack bouldering" appeal to you, give it a shot. The route also has the benefit of not interfering with any of the popular neighboring lines and can be a good one to attempt on busier days at the crag.
The business on this one is quite brief, but if the words "crack bouldering" appeal to you, give it a shot. The route also has the benefit of not interfering with any of the popular neighboring lines and can be a good one to attempt on busier days at the crag.
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