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Routes in South Star Wall

A Steep Climb Named Desire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ali S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bronco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bucko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cookie Mix S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Father's Day T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Megalomania S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On the Outskirts of Hope S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Star Walls Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taste the Pain S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Warp Factor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,031 total · 31/month
Shared By: 426 on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Stout overhanging face a tiny ways left of Star Walls crack. Some funky sidepulls give way to sustained edging and a long move to a horizontal rail.

Pump out right on the rail to Star Wall Crack anchors...or continue for the 13d extention "Steep Climb Named Desire"...

Location

Start off a boulder a few feet left of Star Walls crack.

There's a no-hands KB at the 3rd bolt. You may want to exploit it...

Protection

Usually fixed down to the first draw or two...

Photos

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Marc-Andre
Squamish, B.C
Marc-Andre   Squamish, B.C
This route is all time, but way soft for 13a, more like 5.12+ Classic steep edges on granite. Aug 29, 2016
Sic Nabo  
 
Extremely classic movement. If you're in the area, you have to do this climb! Aug 12, 2015
urs
 
urs  
 
A video of Warp Factor.
vimeo.com/13344530 Feb 17, 2011
Del
  5.13a
Del  
  5.13a
really fun climb! definitely worth hoppin on just for fun if you are walking by. steep for granite!!! and yeah, about that last move :-) Nov 6, 2010
Great climb - true to its rating. Haven't got the RP yet, but it's great to work on as all the draws are fixed. The entire 2nd half of the climb is the most difficult - the last move to the anchors might be the physical crux. Mar 7, 2009